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LISGRIFFIN.--See BUTTEVANT.

LISKEEVY, a parish, partly in the barony of KILMAIN, county of MAYO, but chiefly in that, of DUNMORE, county of GALWAY, and province of CONNAUGHT, 6 3/4 miles (N. W.) from Tuam, on the road to Claremorris and Mayo; containing 2806 inhabitants. It comprises a large quantity of bog, the whole of which is easily reclaimable from the abundance of limestone gravel found in the vicinity. The river Clare runs through it, and in some places has a depth of 40 feet. It is a vicarage, in the diocese of Tuam. forming part of the union of Tuam; the rectory partly constitutes the corps of the deanery, and is partly appropriate to the provost and chapter of Tuam. The tithes amount to £147. 16. 1 3/4., of which £125. 11. 5 1/2. is payable to the dean, provost, and chapter, and the remainder to the vicar. In the R. C. divisions it forms part of the union or district of Adregoole, and has a chapel at Milltown. About 220 children are educated in three private schools.

LISLEE, a parish, in the barony of IBANE and BARRYROE, county of CORK, and province of MUNSTER, 10 miles (S. W.) from Bandon, on the southern coast; containing, with the village of Court-McSherry (which is separately described), 1786 inhabitants. This parish, which comprises 6250 statute acres, as applotted under the tithe act, is situated on the western side of the harbour of Court-McSherry; the land is in general good and chiefly under tillage, and, from the great facility of procuring sea manure at the "Broad Strand," is in some parts well cultivated. At Dunworley is a small bog overflowed by the sea; there are some quarries of slate of an inferior quality, but in the vicinity of Court-McSherry slate of superior quality and colour is obtained. The seats are Court-McSherry, the residence of J. Leslie, Esq., beautifully situated on the harbour and sheltered by a well-planted eminence; Sea Court, of H. Longfield, Esq.; Butlerstown, of Jonas Travers, Esq.; and the glebe-house, of the Rev. J. Stewart. The seneschal of the Earl of Shannon has the power of holding a court baron here for the recovery of debts not exceeding 40s. late currency, which has merged into that of Timoleague, where the courts are now held.

The living is a vicarage, in the diocese of Ross, episcopally united in 1705 to the rectory of Kilsillagh, together constituting the union of Lislee, in the patronage of the Bishop: the rectory is impropriate in the Earl of Shannon. The tithes amount to £749. 2. 6., of which £203. 13. is payable to the impropriator, and the remainder to the vicar; the entire tithes of the benefice amount to £588. 3. 8. The glebe comprises 42 acres, of which 10 were purchased by the late Board of First Fruits; the glebe-house was built in 1813, by a gift of £100 and a loan of £750 from the same Board. The church is a neat edifice in the early English style, with a square tower, erected in 1830 at the expense of the parish, aided by a loan of £900 from the Board. In the R. C. divisions this parish forms part of the union or district of Abbeymahon; the chapel, a large plain building, is at Butlerstown. Of the seven schools in the parish, in which during the summer about 300 children are educated, the parochial schools at Barreragh are partly supported by the incumbent, and, together with a school at Court-McSherry, built and supported by the Leslie family, and a Sunday school, are under his superintendence; there is a school held in the chapel yard at Butlerstown, under the patronage of the R. C. clergy: the remainder are private schools. There are several ancient circular mounds, or raths; that from which the parish is said to derive its name Lis-lee is a little to the west of the church, but the most extensive is on a hill about half a mile to the south. On a small peninsula in the bay of Dunworley, are the ruins of the castle of that name, having a very narrow entrance similar to that of the strong castle of the O'Driscols on Cape Clear; and on the cliffs called the "Seven Heads" is an old signal tower. Near Dunworley is a spring of very pure water, dedicated to St. Anne, and in several parts of the parish are springs strongly impregnated with iron. A little north of the Broad Strand are lofty cliffs composed of several distinct strata; the fourth from the surface is a soft ferruginous yellow rock, in which masses of iron ore are found, almost pure, and varying in size from 4oz. to nearly 1 cwt.

LISMAKEERY, or LISMACDIRY, a parish, in the barony of LOWER CONNELLO EAST, county of LIMERICK, and province of MUNSTER, 2 1/4 miles (S.) from Askeaton, on the road to Newbridge, and on the western bank of the river Deel; containing 1268 inhabitants. It comprises 1016 statute acres, as applotted under the tithe act, consisting chiefly of a light soil interspersed with limestone crags, and much encumbered with loose stones, presenting an uneven surface and bleak appearance, but is nevertheless generally productive, and on the banks of the Deel is even fertile. Altavilla, the handsome residence of T. G. Bateman, Esq., surrounded by a well-planted demesne, is finely situated on this river, at the south-eastern extremity of the parish. It is a rectory, in the diocese of Limerick, forming part of the union of Askeaton: the tithes amount to £180. In the R. C. divisions also it is included in the union or district of Askeaton. On an eminence near Altavilla are the ruins of the old church.

LISMALIN, a parish, in the barony of SLIEVARDAGH, county of TIPPERARY, and province of MUNSTER, 4 1/2 miles (S. W.) from Callan; containing 1392 inhabitants. This parish, which is situated on the confines of the county of Kilkenny, comprises 4191 statute acres, as applotted under the tithe act, and was anciently distinguished for its castle, of which there are still some portions remaining. It is a rectory and vicarage, in the diocese of Cashel, united to the prebend and vicarage of Crohane, and the rectories and vicarages of Modeshill and Mowney, together constituting the corps of the archdeaconry of Cashel, in the patronage of the Archbishop. The tithes of the union amount to £1047. 3. 4.; the glebe comprises 33 1/2 acres. The church is a neat edifice.

LISMATEIGUE, a denomination or reputed parish, in the barony of KNOCKTOPHER, county of KILKENNY, and province of LEINSTER, 3 miles (S.) from Knocktopher, on the road from Waterford to Kilkenny; containing 931 inhabitants. It anciently formed part of the possessions of the Abbey of Jerpoint; and comprises 2637 statute acres, of which the tithes, amounting to £100, are payable to the rector and vicar of Burn-church, in the diocese of Ossory.

LISMORE, a market and post-town (formerly a parliamentary borough), a parish, and the seat of a diocese, partly in the barony of CONDONS and CLONGIBBONS, in the county of CORK, but chiefly in that of COSHMORE and COSHBRIDE, county of WATERFORD, and in the province of MUNSTER, 34 miles (S. S. W.) from Waterford, and 109 1/2 (S. W. by S.) from Dublin, on the mail-coach road from Waterford to Cork; containing, with the post-town of Cappoquin (which is separately described), 14,938 inhabitants, of which number, 2894 are in the town of Lismore. This place, called anciently Dun-sginne, from an old fortification to the east of the town (now called the Round Hill), to which, on his expulsion from Rathenin by King Blathmac, in 631, St. Carthagh fled for shelter, derived its present name, signifying "a great house or village," from a monastery founded here by that saint, which subsequently became a celebrated seat of learning and the head of a diocese. St. Carthagh, who died in 638, and was interred in his own church, was succeeded by St. Cataldus, afterwards Bishop of Tarentum, in Italy, whose successors were indifferently styled abbots or bishops; and the school, which was attended by numbers not only from the neighbouring districts, but also from remote countries, was in the zenith of its reputation about the commencement of the 8th century. The establishment continued to flourish; and such was the fame of this place, that not less than 20 churches were founded in its immediate vicinity; but in 812 it was plundered by the Danes, who, from that period till 915, five times repeated their devastations. In 978 the town and abbey were burned by the Ossorians; in 1095 the town was destroyed by an accidental fire, and in 1116, 1138, and 1157 both the town and the monastery suffered from conflagration. Hen. II., after landing at Waterford, marched to this place, where he was met by the chiefs of Munster, who with the archbishops, bishops, and abbots of Ireland swore allegiance to him, and gave him a charter confirming the kingdom of Ireland to him and his heirs forever. While here the king chose a site, and gave the necessary orders for the erection of a fortress for its defence. In 1173, Raymond Le Gros, with the English army, marched to this place with the plunder they had taken in Ophaly; and after ravaging the city and neighbourhood, proceeded on his route to Dungarvan. A castle was erected here, in 1185, by John, Earl of Morton, and Lord of Ireland: but four years afterwards it was taken by the Irish, who put Robert de Barry, the commander, and the whole of the garrison to the sword; it was, however, soon afterwards rebuilt by the king, and for many ages continued to be the residence of the bishops of the see, till Miler Magrath, archbishop of Cashel and bishop of Lismore, in 1518, granted the manor and other lands to Sir Walter Raleigh, from whom, with the rest of his possessions, they were purchased by Sir Richard Boyle, afterwards created Earl of Cork. The castle was greatly strengthened and improved by the Earl, who built three other forts in the neighbourhood, one of which was at the park, one at Ballygarran, and the third at Ballyinn; he also obtained a charter of incorporation for the town, and the grant of a market and fairs. At the commencement of the war in 1641, the castle was besieged by a force of 5000 Irish under Sir Rich. Belling, but was bravely defended by the Earl's son, Lord Broghill, who compelled them to abandon the attempt. In 1643, a party of 200 insurgents, in retaliation for the destruction of Clogheen by the garrison of this place, entered the town and burned most of the thatched houses and cabins, killed 60 of the inhabitants, and carried off several prisoners; and in July of the same year, Lieut.-Gen. Purcell, commander-in-chief of the insurgent forces, at the head of 7000 foot and 900 horse, with three pieces of artillery, marched to Cappoquin, where he remained for four days laying waste the adjacent country; and being there joined by Lord Muskerry, he advanced to besiege the castle of Lismore. After a week's siege, a cessation of arms was mutually agreed on, and the assailants immediately retired; but the castle suffered great injury during this war, and in 1645, being burned by Lord Castlehaven, it was reduced almost to a ruin, and the town became a neglected village, consisting only of a few miserable cabins. In 1686, the Earl of Clarendon, on his progress through Munster, passed a night in this castle, which was also visited by Jas. II., in 1689; and in 1785 the Duke of Rutland, Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, held a council in the castle, from which he issued several proclamations. The castle, with all its lands and other property, descended from the Earls of Cork and Burlington, by marriage, to the ancestor of his Grace the Duke of Devonshire, who is the present proprietor.

The town, which has been greatly improved by the late and present Duke, is romantically situated on the summit of a steep eminence, rising to the height of 93 feet from the southern bank of the river Blackwater, over which is a fine bridge of stone, erected by the late Duke of Devonshire at an expense of £9000, and of which the central arch has a span of 100 feet. Some new streets have been made: the total number of houses, in 1831, was 366, of which several are neat and well built; the place has a cheerful and thriving appearance. The castle, restored by the late Duke in 1812, forms an imposing object, rising majestically from the elevated bank of the river, and occupying the verge of a precipitous cliff, partly clothed with wood and towering above the foliage which conceals its base. The approach is through an outer gateway, called the Riding House, from which a long avenue of stately trees, flanked with high stone walls, leads to the principal entrance through a lofty gateway tower, over which are the arms of the first Earl of Cork, into the square of the castle, of which several of the towers are still in their original state, though other portions of the building have been restored and embellished in a more modern style. The state apartments are spacious and very elegantly fitted up; the drawing-rooms are hung with splendid tapestry and paintings by the first masters. From the summits of the tower and the flat roofs of the building are magnificent views of the surrounding country; in front is the lofty mountain of Knockmeledown, rising above the range of hills extending eastward, from which a deep ravine thickly wooded and alternated with projecting masses of rugged rock appearing through the foliage, descends to the vale immediately below it, which is embellished with handsome residences and rich plantations; and near its apparent extremity is seen the town of Cappoquin, with the spire of its church and its bridge of light structure over the river. In the grounds are some remarkably fine yew trees of great age, forming an avenue and assuming the appearance of cloisters. The trade is very inconsiderable; but on the river, immediately below the castle, is an extensive salmon fishery, and during the season great quantities of fish are taken, which are packed in ice, and exported to Liverpool and to other distant ports. The Blackwater affords great facility of commerce with the port of Youghal; the navigation has been extended from the point to which the tide reaches, about a mile to the east, up to the bridge by a canal constructed at the expense of the late Duke, by means of which corn and flour are exported, and timber, iron, coal, and miscellaneous articles are imported in lighters plying between this place and Youghal. There are no stated market days: the fairs are on May 25th, Sept. 25th, and Nov. 12th; and there is a constabulary police station.

By charter of Jas. I., granted in 1613 to Sir Richard Boyle, first Earl of Cork, the town, with the circumjacent lands within a mile and a half round the parish church, was made a free borough; and the corporation was directed to consist of a portreeve, free burgesses and commonalty. The charter also invested the corporation with the privilege of returning two members to the Irish parliament, which they continued to exercise till the Union, when the borough was disfranchised, and the £15,000 awarded as compensation was paid to the trustees under the will of the late Earl of Cork and Burlington, whose seneschal was the returning officer. Whether the officers of the corporation, nominated in the charter, were ever regularly chosen, cannot be ascertained; but it appears that few municipal functions were exercised, except by the seneschal of the manor, who still holds his court, at which debts not exceeding £10 are recoverable every third week; but since the Union the corporation has become virtually extinct. Petty sessions are held on alternate Wednesdays: the sessions-house is a spacious building, and there is also a bridewell.

The soil is in general fertile, and the lands alternately arable and pasture, with very little waste, except roads and river, and a small quantity of bog; the system of agriculture is improved. Limestone abounds in the southern parts of the parish, and towards the north is found in strata of great depth. Slate of good quality for roofing is quarried on the north side of the Black-water and at Glenribben, and there are several other quarries, of which one near the bridge of Lismore has been worked for a long time; there is slate also on the side of Knockmeledown; and coarse clay slate; silicious rock, conglomerate, and sandstone are found in various parts. Iron, copper, and lead ores are frequently discovered, and have formerly been worked, but discontinued for want of fuel; a lead mine was discovered in 1836, a little below Cappoquin, near the navigable part of the Blackwater, on the estate of Mr. Usher, but it is not yet worked. The scenery abounds with features of grandeur and beauty; on the north, towards the county of Tipperary, the parish is bounded by a mountainous ridge, of which the highest point is the conical summit of Knockmeledown, 2700 feet above the level of the sea, commanding a magnificent and extensive prospect, embracing the rock of Cashel and its cathedral church; and the ocean, with the bays of Youghal and Dungarvan. On the summit of this mountain, Mr. Eccles, a writer on electricity, was buried in 1781, at his own request. Some very rich scenery is also observable on the roads to Clogheen and Cappoquin, about two miles distant; in various places deep ravines intersect the range of hills, and the whole of the adjoining district presents features of interest and variety. The principal seats are Tourin, the residence of Sir R. Musgrave, Bart., composed partly of an ancient castle, and commanding an extensive and picturesque view; Ballysaggartmore, of Arthur Keily, Esq., in an ample and tastefully planted demesne near the river, also commanding some fine views; Flower Hill, of B. Drew, Esq., a beautiful residence in the cottage style, surrounded by richly diversified scenery; Fort William, of J. Gumbleton, Esq., a handsome demesne on the opposite side of the Blackwater, in which a new house is now being erected by the proprietor; Glencairne, of Gervaise Bushe, Esq., a handsome residence beautifully situated; Ballygally, the occasional residence of G. Holmes Jackson, Esq.; Glanbeg, of G. Bennett Jackson, Esq.; Tourtain, of T. Foley, Esq.; Ballyinn, of P. Foley, Esq.; Ballyrafter, of M. Quinlan, Esq., M. D.; and Salterbridge, of A. Chearnley, Esq., beautifully situated in thriving plantations. At Ballyinn are some flour-mills.

The SEE of LISMORE, soon after the arrival of the English, was enlarged by the annexation of the ancient see of Ardmore. Bishop Felix, who succeeded to the prelacy in 1179, gave the church of St. John to the abbey of Thomas-Court, near Dublin; and from this time fierce disputes were carried on between the prelates of this see and the bishops of Waterford, which were frequently renewed and continued by several of his successors, till 1358, when, during the prelacy of Bishop Reve, the two sees were united, and continued to be held as one by Thomas Le Reve, bishop of Lismore and Waterford, and by his successors till the passing of the Church Temporalities' Act, in the 3rd and 4th of Wm. IV., when, on the decease of Dr. Bourke, both were annexed to the archiepiscopal see of Cashel, and the temporalities became vested in the Ecclesiastical Commissioners. Lismore is one of the eleven dioceses which constitute the ecclesiastical province of Cashel: it includes the greater part of the county of Waterford and part of Tipperary, extending 38 miles in length and 37 in breadth, and comprising an estimated superficies of 323,500 acres, of which 92,000 are in Tipperary and the remainder in Waterford; the lands belonging to the see and its gross revenue are comprised in the return for the see of Waterford. The chapter consists of a dean, precentor, chancellor, treasurer, archdeacon, and the prebendaries of Tulloghorton, Dysart, Donoughmore, Kilrossanty, Modeligo, Kilgobinet, Seskinan, and Clashmore. There are five vicars choral, who were first instituted by Bishop Christopher about the year 1230, and are all appointed by the dean, who has a peculiar jurisdiction over the parishes of Lismore, Tallow, and Macollop during eleven months of the year, till inhibited by the bishop, a month before the episcopal visitation; he has also a right to appoint a registrar, and can grant licences under his own consistorial seal; the deanery, it is said, may be held by a layman. There are comprehended in the see the rural deaneries of Lismore, Whitechurch, Dungarvan, Carrick, Clonmel, and Cahir. The number of parishes in the diocese is 76, comprised in 43 benefices, of which 23 are unions of two or more parishes, and 20 single parishes; of these, 6 are in the patronage of the Crown, 26 in that of the Archbishop of Cashel, and the remainder in lay patronage. There are in the diocese 36 churches, and one other episcopal place of worship, and 15 glebe-houses.In the R. C. divisions the diocese is united with that of Waterford, together forming one of the seven bishopricks suffragan to the archiepiscopal see of Cashel: it contains 65 chapels; the number of parochial benefices and clergy is stated in the account of the see of Waterford.

The cathedral church, dedicated to St. Carthagh, the only one remaining of the numerous ancient churches of this place, and now used as the parochial church, after being almost destroyed in the reign of Elizabeth by Edmund Fitzgibbon, called the "White Knight," was restored in 1663 at the expense of the Earl of Cork. It is a handsome structure, chiefly in the later English style, with a square tower surmounted by a light and elegant spire, which were added to it some few years since, when extensive alterations and repairs were made. The entrance is at the extremity of the south transept under a pure Norman arch of elegant design; the choir, in which the parochial service is performed, is embellished with windows of stained glass, executed by the late George McAllister, of Dublin; and the bishop's throne and prebendal stalls are of oak richly carved. The only ancient monument now remaining is one to the family of Mac Grath, dated 1548, and very richly sculptured; there are some handsome tablets to the memory of the late Dean Scott, Archdeacon Ryan, J. H. Lovett, Esq., and to the families of Musgrave, Chearnley, and others. The economy fund, on an average of three years ending May 1831, amounted to £823. 10. 8. per ann., arising from the tithes of the parishes of Lismore and Macollop; it is appropriated to the payment of two preachers in the cathedral, who have respectively stipends of £80 and £65; to the curate of Cappoquin, whose stipend is £90, and to the payment of salaries to the cathedral officers, and repairs.

The rectory of Lismore has been united from time immemorial to that of Macollop, and both are appropriate to the economy fund of the cathedral; the vicarage is also united to that of Macollop, and both are appropriate to the vicars choral, who have cure of souls. The tithes amount to £1969. 4. 7. for both parishes, which, with the exception of four townlands in the county of Cork, comprise about 60,000 statute acres; there is no glebe-house, but a residence for the Archdeacon. The R. C. parish is co-extensive with that of the Established Church; the chapel is a large and neat edifice, and there is a chapel also at Ballyduff. There are places of worship for Presbyterians in connection with the Synod of Ulster, of the third class, and for Wesleyan Methodists. About 650 children are taught in six public schools, of which the classical school is endowed with a house and £30 per ann. by the late Earl of Cork; two are partly supported by the Dean and Chapter and vicars choral, one of which is aided by a bequest of £17 per ann. from the late Mr. Magner, of Boston, in the United States; two by Sir R. Musgrave and Capt. Bushe, and one by the Duke of Devonshire. There are also 15 private schools, in which are about 700 children, and a Sunday school. Six almshouses were founded and endowed by the first Earl of Cork for decayed Protestant soldiers; and there are a fever hospital and dispensary. Mr. Lovett, in 1805, bequeathed £500 to the poor. At Kilbree are some remains of a castle built by King John, situated on an eminence commanding the Blackwater. There are vestiges of a double and single trench in this parish, the former, called Rian-Bo-Padruic, extending eastward from Knockmeledown, and twice crossing the river in its line towards Ardmore; and the latter from Cappoquin along the side of the mountains into the county of Cork. Halfway between Lismore and Cappoquin is a weak chalybeate water, and there is another between Lismore and Knockmeledown; there is also a very strong chalybeate spring near Glenmore. Near the church are two small caves, and one in the grove near the castle; there is also a cave at Ballymartin, through which flows a rivulet; there are numerous circular intrenchments in the parish, especially on both sides of the high road to Dungarvan and the mountains. Roger Boyle, first Earl of Orrery, and fifth son of Richard, first Earl of Cork, an eminent statesman and soldier; Robert Boyle, his brother, the celebrated natural philosopher; and Jonathan Henry Lovett, distinguished by his attainments in the Persian, Hindostanee, and Arabic languages, and who died off the Cape of Good Hope, in 1805, on his voyage from India, in the 25th year of his age, were natives of this parish. Lismore gives the titles of Baron and Viscount to the family of O'Callaghan.

LISMULLEN, parish, in the barony of SKRYNE, county of MEATH, and province of LEINSTER, 5 miles (S. S. E.) from Navan, on the mail road from Dublin to Enniskillen; containing 107 inhabitants. A house for Augustinian nuns was founded here in 1240 by Alicia, sister of Richard de la Corner, bishop of Meath, which existed until the Reformation . in the reign of Edw. VI., the buildings and part of the estates were granted to Thos. Cusack. The parish comprises about 1920 statute acres of good land, about two-thirds of which are in tillage; good gritstone is quarried here for building, and copper is supposed to exist but has not yet been worked. Here is a station of the constabulary police. Lismullen Park is the seat of Sir Chas. Drake Dillon, Bart., on whose ancestor, John Dillon, and his heirs male, the dignity of a free baron of the Holy Roman Empire was conferred by the Emperor Joseph II., in 1782; the demesne which comprises about 200 plantation acres, contains some fine old timber. It is a chapelry, in the diocese of Meath, forming part of the union of Skryne: the tithes are included in the composition for Templecarn. In the R. C. divisions also it forms part of the union or district of Skryne or Skreen.

LISNADILL, a parish, partly in the baronies of ARMAGH and UPPER FEWS, but chiefly in that of LOWER FEWS, county of ARMAGH, and province of ULSTER, 2 miles (S. E.) from Armagh, on the road to Newtown-Hamilton; containing 7699 inhabitants. This parish comprises, according to the Ordnance survey, 18,556 1/2 statute acres, of which 4468 1/2 are in the barony of Armagh, 5824 in Upper Fews, and 8264 in Lower Fews. The land is remarkably good, and the system of agriculture in a very improved state. Limestone of excellent quality is quarried in several parts of the parish, chiefly for agricultural purposes. The principal seats are Beech Hill, the residence of T. Simpson, Esq.; Ballyards, of J. Simpson, Esq.; and Ballier, of J. B. Boyd, Esq. The weaving of linen for the manufacturers and bleachers of the surrounding district affords employment to many of the inhabitants; and there are two very extensive bleach-greens, in which, on an average, 56,000 pieces are annually finished for the English markets. The living is a rectory and perpetual curacy, in the diocese of Armagh; the rectory forms part of the union of Armagh, and the perpetual curacy was instituted under the provisions of an act of the 7th of Geo. III. The tithes amount to £650; and the stipend of the curate is £100, paid by the rector of Armagh, who is the patron; the curate has also the glebe-house, a handsome residence built by Primate Robinson, and 64 acres of glebe, purchased by the primate for the endowment of the living. The church is a spacious edifice in the later English style, with a square embattled tower erected by Primate Robinson in 1772, and has the arms of the founder over the entrance. In the R. C. divisions the parish is the head of a union or district called also Ballymacnab and Kilcluney, comprising the parishes of Lisnadill and Kilcluney, part of Mullaghbrack, and the district of Armaghbreague; there are chapels at Ballymacnab and Granemore, and a spacious and handsome chapel is now being erected in the parish. About 650 children are taught in six public schools, of which the parochial school is endowed with 7 acres of land by Primate Robinson, who also built the school-house; two are partly supported by the rector and curate, and one by Thos. Wilson, Esq.; there are also two private schools, in which are about 120 children, and five Sunday schools. The ancient church was destroyed in the war of 1641, but its extensive cemetery is still used. At Corran, in 1833, was found a cylindrical case of gold, containing many antique gems and ornaments, among which was a necklace of jet richly carved; it is now in the museum of J. Corry, Esq., of Armagh.

LISNAKILL, a parish, in the barony of MIDDLETHIRD, county of WATERFORD, and province of MUNSTER, 4 miles (W. by S.) from Waterford; containing 667 inhabitants. It comprises 2462 statute acres, as applotted under the tithe act; the soil is various, and, in the north-western extremity, slate of good quality for roofing was formerly quarried. At Whitfield was the seat of W. Christmas, Esq., the principal landed proprietor, but the mansion has lately been taken down. The living is a rectory, in the diocese of Waterford, united to part of the rectory of Kilmeaden, together constituting the corps of the treasurership of Waterford, in the patronage of the Bishop. The tithes amount to £160, and the glebe comprises rather more than 5 1/2 acres; there is neither church nor glebe-house. About 130 children are taught in a school at Butlerstown, under the National Board. At the time of the Down survey there was an ancient castle at this place; and in a Danish fort, at no great distance, were found two curious earthen vessels, in one of which was a golden bracelet. At Whitfield, in a vast heap of stones, are two conical apartments built of stone, and supposed to have been used as tombs.

LISNARRICK, a village, in the parish of DERRYVULLEN, barony of LURG, county of FERMANAGH, and province of ULSTER, 3 1/2 miles (S.) from Kesh, on the road to Enniskillen; containing 171 inhabitants. It consists of three rows of irregularly built houses, disposed in a triangular form; and has fairs on Jan. 12th, on the 22nd of Jan., Feb., and March, April 5th, May 9th and 23rd, 22nd of June and July, and Oct. 15th, for general farming stock.

LISNASKEA, or LISNESKEA, a market and post-town, in the parish of AGHALURCHER, barony of MAGHERASTEPHANA, county of FERMANAGH, and province of ULSTER, 9 miles (S. E.) from Enniskillen, and 71 (N. E.) from Dublin, on the road to Enniskillen; containing 89 houses and 430 inhabitants. It consists chiefly of comfortable houses and shops, and contains a handsome market-house, corn and butter stores, a savings' bank, and a large hotel. From its proximity to Lough Erne, which reaches to Lake Head, within a quarter of a mile of the town, great facility is afforded for the conveyance of corn, butter, linen, and yarn, of which considerable quantities are supplied from the thickly inhabited islands on the lake, and sold in this market: it is stated that a short canal could be constructed at a moderate expense that would enable boats to come up to the town. The market is on Saturday, and fairs are held on the Monday before Easter, April 13th, Monday after Ascension, June 1st, and Oct. 10th, for general farming stock. The church, or chapel of ease to Aghalurcher, was rebuilt in 1814, at an expense of £369 British, defrayed by the parishioners; and in 1829 the late Board of First Fruits gave £450, and lent £50 for the erection of a glebe-house in the vicinity. The curate, who is appointed by the rector of Aghalurcher, has a stipend of £73. 16. 8., exclusively of the marriage fees, and the glebe-house, which is valued at £20 per annum. The R. C. chapel, called the Moate Chapel, stands on a hill near the town: it was built in 1814, at an expense of about £700: attached is a national school. In the town is a meeting-house for Primitive Methodists; also a school endowed by Major Leslie, with three acres of land and £14 per annum, an infants' school, and a dispensary. In the vicinity are Green Hill, the residence of Major Irvine; Snow Hill, of J. D. Johnstone, Esq.; Fairview, of Alex. Robinson, Esq.; The Hill, of the Rev. M. Herbert; and the ruins of Castle-Balfour.--See AGHALURCHER.

LISRONAGH, a parish, in the barony of IFFA and OFFA EAST, county of TIPPERARY, and province of MUNSTER, 4 miles (N.) from Clonmel, on the road to Fethard; containing 981 inhabitants. It is bounded on the east by the river Anner, and comprises 2807 statute acres, as applotted under the tithe act. Quarries of limestone are worked chiefly for agricultural purposes and repairing roads, but from one of them large blocks are raised for building. Here is Kilmore, the old residence of the Bagwell family, now in a dilapidated state; the estate and the greater part of the parish are the property of John Bagwell, Esq., of Glenconner. Lisronagh is a station of the constabulary police. The living is a rectory, in the diocese of Lismore, and in the patronage of the Bishop; the tithes amount to £230. 15. 4. There is no glebe-house, but there is a glebe of 15 3/4 acres. The church, towards the erection of which the late Board of First Fruits lent £750, is a neat edifice, completed in 1832. In the R. C. divisions the parish forms part of the union or district of Kilgrant, or Powerstown, and contains a chapel. In the parochial school, supported by subscription, about 30 children are educated; and there is a school of about 250 children under the superintendence of the parish priest.

LISSAN, or LISANE, a parish, partly in the barony of DUNGANNON, county of TYRONE, and partly in that of LOUGHINSHOLIN, county of LONDONDERRY, and province of ULSTER, 3 miles (N. by E.) from Cookstown, on the road to Moneymore and on that from Omagh to Belfast; containing 6163 inhabitants. This parish, which is bounded on the north by the mountain of Slieve Gallion, comprises, according to the Ordnance survey, 24,684 1/2 statute acres, including 147 3/4 in Lough Fea, and of which 12,917 1/2 are in the county of Tyrone. The greater portion is in the manor of Ardtrea, belonging to the see of Armagh, and part is in the manor of Moneymore and the property of the Drapers' Company of London. In the war of 1641, the castle, which at that time was the property of the Staples family, to whom it was granted on the plantation of Ulster, was seized by Nial O'Quin for Sir Phelim O'Nial, who plundered the house of Sir Thomas Staples while rendezvousing at Moneymore castle, and compelled the men employed in his iron-works on the Lissan water to make pikes and pike-heads from the stores of their master. The land is mountainous and boggy; about one-third is under tillage and produces excellent crops, and the remainder affords good pasture; the system of agriculture is improved, and much of the bog is of valuable quality; limestone abounds and is extensively quarried for agricultural uses. The mountain of Slieve Gallion has an elevation of 1730 feet above the level of the sea; the surrounding scenery is strongly diversified and in some parts very picturesque. The principal seats are Lissan Park, the residence of Sir Thos. Staples, Bart., a noble mansion in an extensive demesne embellished with thriving plantations, an artificial sheet of water with cascades, and a picturesque bridge, built by the celebrated Ducart; Muff House, of the Rev. J. Molesworth Staples; and Crieve, of W. Maygill, Esq. The linen manufacture is carried on to a great extent by the whole of the population, who combine it with agricultural pursuits. The living is a rectory, in the diocese of Armagh, and in the patronage of the Lord-Primate: the tithes amount to £500. The glebe-house was built at an expense of £1313. 14. 5., of which £100 was a gift and £650 a loan from the late Board of First Fruits, in 1807, and the remainder was paid by the incumbent; the glebe comprises 87 1/4 statute acres, valued at £67. 10. per annum. The church is a plain and very ancient structure, with an east window of stained glass. In the R. C. divisions the parish is the head of a union or district, comprising also part of the parish of Desertlyn; the chapel is a neat edifice. About 400 children are taught in five public schools, of which the parochial school, for which a house was built by the Rev. J. M. Staples, at an expense of £500, and a school at Grouse Lodge, for which a house was built by Mrs. Wright, who endowed it with an acre of land, are supported under the trustees of Erasmus Smith's charity; a school at Crevagh was built and is supported by Sir T. Staples, Bart., and one at Donaghbreaghy is aided by the Drapers' Company. There are also a private school, in which are about 30 children, and four Sunday schools.

LISSELTIN, a parish, in the barony of IRAGHTICONNOR, county of KERRY, and province of MUNSTER, 6 miles (N. W.) from Listowel, on the road from Tarbert to Ballybunnian; containing 2148 inhabitants, of which number, 158 are in the village, which consists of 22 dwellings. The parish comprises 6327 statute acres, as applotted under the tithe act, of which only 300 acres are arable; of the remainder, 1860 consist of coarse pasture, and 1744 of bog and mountain. It is in the diocese of Ardfert and Aghadoe: the rectory is impropriate in Thos. Anthony Stoughton, Esq., and the vicarage forms part of the union of Aghavallin, also called the union of Listowel: the tithes, amounting to £120, are payable in equal portions to the impropriator and the vicar. In the R. C. divisions it is the head of a union or district, which comprises the parishes of Lisseltin, Killeheny, and Kilconly, and the greater part of Galey, and contains the chapels of Lisseltin and Ballybunnian. About 180 children are educated in three private schools.

LISSONUFFY, a parish, in the barony and county of ROSCOMMON, and province of CONNAUGHT, 3 1/2 miles (S. E.) from Strokestown, on the road to Lanesborough; containing 4599 inhabitants. It comprises 5022 statute acres, as applotted under the tithe act, and valued at £5025. 10. per annum; the land is chiefly in tillage and is tolerably well cultivated. The village of Erra is situated on the river Shannon (by which the parish is bounded on the east), and is nearly surrounded by an extensive tract of bog. Stone is found in this parish, peculiarly adapted for mill-stones, of which a considerable number are made for supplying the adjoining counties; and specimens of coal and iron-ore are found on the surface of the mountain of Slievebawn, on the western side of the parish, but no attempt has been made to discover any veins. Mount Dillon, the seat of Theobald Dillon, Esq., situated on an isolated hill, forms a conspicuous object in the surrounding scenery. It is in the diocese of Elphin; the rectory forms part of the corps of the prebend of Kilgoghlin in the cathedral of Elphin, and the vicarage part of the union of Bumlin: the tithes amount to £258. 9. 2 1/2., of which £107. 1. 6. is payable to the rector, and the remainder to the vicar. In the R. C. divisions it is the head of a union or district, called Carraghroe, which comprises the parishes of Lissonuffy and Clonfinlogh, and part of Bumlin; and contains two chapels, one at Carraghroe, in this parish, the other at Caranaskagh in Clonfinlogh; that of Carraghroe is a very neat edifice of recent erection. About 450 children are educated in six private schools. There are some remains of the old church, the burial-ground attached to which is still used; and there are also the ruins of an ancient abbey containing a beautiful pointed window and doorway, and some handsome monuments to the O'Conor family.

LISTEELY, or KILTEELY, a parish, partly in the baronies of CLANWILLIAM and SMALL COUNTY, but chiefly in that of COONAGH, county of LIMERICK, and province of MUNSTER, 3 miles (S. W.) from Pallas-Greine, on the road to Bruff; containing 2128 inhabitants. This parish comprises 1949 statute acres, as applotted under the tithe act; the land is in general good and chiefly in tillage; the substratum is limestone, occasionally alternating with basalt, which latter in several parts rises to the surface; the system of agriculture is improving. Fairs, chiefly for horned cattle and pigs, are held in the village of Kilteely on Feb. 1st, June 1st, and Oct. 25th; and there is a constabulary police station. It is a rectory and vicarage, in the diocese of Emly, forming part of the union of Ballybrood and corps of the precentorship of the cathedral of Emly; the tithes amount to £284. 6. 2. The church is a ruin. In the R. C. divisions it is the head of a union or district, called Kilteely, comprising also the parish of Liscormuck and part of Dromkeen; and containing two chapels, one in Listeely, the other in Dromkeen; the former, in the village of Kilteely, is a large cruciform edifice, erected in 1816, and has a painting of the crucifixion over the altar. Adjacent to it are two national schools, erected at the expense of the Rev. E. Walsh, P.P.; and there are two private schools, in which are about 160 children. On an eminence near the village are some remains of the church of Kildromin, founded by the Knights Templars in 1291.

LISTERLING, a parish, in the barony of IDA, county of KILKENNY, and province of LEINSTER, 4 miles (S. S. W.) from Inistioge; containing 1551 inhabitants. The parish is intersected by the Argala, a small mountain river, and is only half a mile from the river Nore; it comprises 5532 statute acres, as applotted under the tithe act, more than two-thirds of which are in pasture; the remainder, with the exception of a small portion of meadow, is under tillage. The soil is in general argillaceous, on a basis of brittle clay-slate, which is quarried on the lands of Listerling and Brownstown; and a vein has been discovered in the former townland containing lead ore, copper and silver, but it has not been worked. In consequence of the small quantity of bog, the principal supply of fuel is obtained from the neighbouring parish of Burnchurch. The village, which contains 25 houses, is a station of the constabulary police; and fairs are held on Jan. 4th, May 6th, June 6th, Sept. 17th, Oct. 24th, and Dec. 5th. The living is a rectory and vicarage, in the diocese of Ossory, and in the patronage of the Bishop: the tithes amount to £258. 9. 2 3/4. The glebe-house was erected in 1821 by aid of a gift of £300 and a loan of £500 from the late Board of First Fruits; the glebe comprises 10 1/4 acres. The church was built in 1796, by aid of a gift of £500 from the same Board, and has been recently repaired by a grant of £207 from the Ecclesiastical Commissioners. In the R. C. divisions the parish forms part of the union or district of Rosbercon. About 210 children are educated in a private school. There are several raths in different parts of the parish; and at Listerling is a mount surrounded by a fosse, from which it is supposed to derive its name, originally perhaps Lis-Easterling, or "the abode of the Ostmen;" near it has been found a small artificial cave, and it is traditionally stated that St. Mullen formerly resided at or near this moat.

LISTOWEL, a post-town and parish, in the barony of IRAGHTICONNOR, county of KERRY, and province of MUNSTER, 17 1/4 miles (N. E.) from Tralee, and 134 (S. W. by W.) from Dublin, on the road from Tralee to Tarbert; containing 4957 inhabitants. This place, according to some authorities, derives its name, originally Lis Tuathal, or "the castle of Tuathal," from Tuathal, one of the earliest kings of Ireland; and according to others, from an old Danish fort in the immediate vicinity of the town. This castle was the last that held out for Lord Kerry against the troops of Elizabeth during the Desmond insurrection; in 1600 it was assaulted and taken by Sir Charles Wilmott, who put all the garrison to the sword. Upon its surrender, the eldest son of Lord Kerry, then five years of age, was carried away privately by his nurse, who contrived to make her escape, but they were discovered in their retreat and the child was sent by Sir Charles to the Lord-President. The town is situated on the right bank of the river Feale, over which is a handsome stone bridge of five arches, each of 50 feet span: it consists of a spacious square, in the centre of which is the church, and of one principal street, from which some smaller streets branch off. The total number of houses, in 1831, was 273, of which many are well built and of respectable appearance; several new houses have been recently built, and there are two good hotels. Fairs are held on alternate Wednesdays, and also on the 13th of May, July 25th, and Oct. 28th, chiefly for cattle, sheep, and pigs. Salmon is very plentiful. The river Cashen is navigable for boats of 15 tons' burden within 2 1/2 miles of the town; a canal with four locks would extend the navigation to the bridge. Behind the castle, on the river Feale, are the extensive flour-mills of Messrs. Leonard and Co., producing annually about 8000 barrels; and there are smaller mills at Island Gariff, also on the Feale. A chief constabulary police force is stationed in the town; a manorial court is held by the seneschal of Listowel every third Tuesday, and petty sessions every Thursday. There is a neat bridewell, and it is in contemplation to erect a court-house.

The parish comprises 7009 statute acres, as applotted under the tithe act, and valued at £3351 per ann.; it is completely encircled by a large tract of bog and morass, which might easily be reclaimed by lowering the bar at the mouth of the river. The soil is remarkably fertile, and the neighbourhood is celebrated for producing wheat of superior quality; the system of agriculture is greatly improved, and limestone is found in several parts and quarried chiefly for burning. The principal seats are Tullamore House, the residence of C. Julian, Esq.; Gurtinard, of S. E. Collis, Esq.; Dromin House, of Jas. Raymond, Esq.; Grenville, of W. G. Sandes, Esq.; Bedford House, of S. S. Raymond, Esq.; and Ennismore, of J. F. Hewson, Esq. Ballinruddery, the seat of the Right Hon. Maurice Fitzgerald, Knight of Kerry, is partly within this parish, but chiefly in that of Finuge, under which head it is described. A new road to Abbeyfeale and Newmarket was completed in 1829, under the superintendence of Mr. Griffith, the Government Engineer, which has been productive of great benefit to the district through which it passes, and in conjunction with the Government roads recently completed on the confines of the counties of Kerry, Cork, and Limerick, will contribute much to the improvement of this neighbourhood.

It is a vicarage, in the diocese of Ardfert and Aghadoe, forming part of the union of Aghavallin; the rectory is impropriate in Thos. Anthony Stoughton, Esq. The tithes amount to £197. 10. 8., of which one-half is payable to the impropriator and the other to the vicar. The church, which is the principal one in the union, is a handsome structure in the later English style, with a square tower surmounted by a neat spire, and is strengthened with buttresses terminating in pinnacles; it was erected by aid of a gift of £500 and a loan of £1000 from the late Board of First Fruits, in 1819; the area surrounding the church which is enclosed by a neat iron railing, is about to be enlarged and planted. In the R. C. divisions the parish is the head of a union or district comprising also portions of the parishes of Finuge, Galey, Dysart, Duagh, and Kilshinane. The chapel was built at an expense of £2000 on a site at the south-western angle of the square, given by the Earl of Listowel; it is a handsome and spacious cruciform structure, with a good portico, and the altar-piece is richly embellished. The parochial school, in which about 60 children are taught, is partly supported by the incumbent; there are two private schools, in which are about 50 children; and a large national school-house, with apartments for a master and mistress, is about to be erected. There is a dispensary in the town. Some very interesting portions still remain of the ancient castle, the front of which occupies part of the western side of the square, and formerly extended to the river; but the rear, which contained some noble apartments, was taken down several years since. The two square towers in the front are, near their summits, connected by an arch, which, from its great elevation, has a very imposing effect; and in the wall is a projecting stone with the remains of a sculptured face, supposed to have been a portrait of McElligot, the architect. The castle formerly belonged to the family of Fitzmaurice, of Duagh, to whose ancestors it was granted by Hen. II., together with the lands of Lixnaw and Clanmaurice; and the manorial rights were purchased from the late Earl of Kerry by the father of the present Earl of Listowel, who takes his title from this place. The ruins of the old church and the burial-ground adjoin the Tarbert road, in the vicinity of the town.

LITTER, or CASTLEHYDE, a parish, partly in the barony of CONDONS and CLONGIBBONS, but chiefly in that of FERMOY, county of CORK, and province of MUNSTER, 2 miles (W. by N.) from Fermoy, on the road to Mallow; ,containing 1926 inhabitants. This parish, anciently called Carrigneady, is situated on the river Blackwater, by which it is divided into two nearly equal parts, and comprises 5154 1/2 statute acres, as rated for the county cess, and valued at £4312 per annum. The land is in general good and chiefly under tillage, and the state of agriculture has of late years been much improved, chiefly through the exertions of the late John Hyde, Esq.; there is but little waste land and no bog. A substratum of limestone extends to the north, and one of a brown or greyish kind of stone to the south, of the river, both of which are worked either for building or repairing the roads; and the limestone is also extensively burnt for manure. On the south side of the Blackwater is a flour-mill worked by a mountain stream which runs through a finely-wooded glen. A court for the manor of Castlehyde is occasionally held by the seneschal, for the recovery of debts not exceeding 40s., late currency. The principal seat is Castlehyde, the spacious and handsome mansion of John Hyde, Esq., beautifully situated on the northern margin of the Blackwater, in the midst of a highly picturesque and richly-wooded demesne extending on both sides of the river, of which it forms one of the most attractive scenes. Within the demesne, which spreads into the adjoining parish of Fermoy, are the ivied ruins of the ancient castle, which at a former period, gave name to the parish; and the river was here formerly crossed by a wooden bridge, in lieu of which there is now a ferry a little to the east of its site. The other seats are Creg, the residence of Col. Stewart; and Templenoe, of W. Lane Hyde, Esq.: at Creg is also the residence of the Rev. S. Adams. The living is a rectory and vicarage, in the diocese of Cloyne; part of the rectory is in the gift of J. Hyde, Esq., the remainder being impropriate in John Nason, Esq.: the vicarage is in the patronage of the Bishop. The tithes amount to £681, of which £288 is payable to the impropriator, and the remainder to the incumbent: there is no glebe-house or glebe. The church, a small but handsome structure with a tower and spire, stands in the demesne of Castlehyde, of which it forms an interesting feature: it was built in 1812, on the site of the ancient edifice, partly at Mr. Hyde's expense, aided by a gift of £400 and a loan of £363 from the late Board of First Fruits, and has since been much improved from a design by G. R. Pain, of Cork, Esq.; the interior is embellished with a richly groined ceiling and most of the windows are of stained glass. In the R. C. divisions the parish, (with the exception of the village of Templenoe, which is within the district of Ballyhooley) forms part of the union or district of Fermoy About 30 children are educated in two private schools. At Creg are the ruins of a castle, said to have been built by the Condons, consisting of a lofty square tower, still nearly entire; and near the border of Killathy parish are the ruins of the castle of Bally-Mac Philip.

LITTERLUNA.--See LETTERLUNA.

LITTERMORE, an island, in the parish of KILLANIN, barony of MOYCULLEN, county of GALWAY, and province of CONNAUGHT, 24 miles (W. N. W.) from Galway, on the western coast: the population is returned with the parish. It is situated on the eastern side of the bay of Kilkerrin, and at the extremity of that of Greatman's, and comprises about 500 acres, of which 80 consist of arable land, and the remainder of bog and pasturable mountain: the inhabitants are chiefly engaged in the fisheries. Here are a signal tower and a coastguard station belonging to the Galway district.

LITTERMULLIN, an island, in the parish of KILCUMMIN, barony of MOYCULLEN, county of GALWAY, and province of CONNAUGHT, 22 miles (W.) from Galway, on the western coast: the population is returned with the parish. It forms one side of Kiegall bay, and its northern end part of the shore of Casheen bay, and it comprises about 250 acres of arable and pasture land. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in the herring and cod fisheries on this coast and in the collection of seaweed for manure, in which several boats are employed.

LITTLE ISLAND.--See BEG-ERIN.

LITTLE ISLAND, a parish and island, in the barony of BARRYMORE, county of CORK, and province of MUNSTER, 4 miles (E.) from Cork; containing 1103 inhabitants. It is situated on the estuary of the Lee, and is separated by a branch of that river from the parish of Caherlog, with which it communicates by a handsome causeway of hewn stone and a metal spring bridge, constructed in 1833 at the expence of Silver C. Oliver, Esq. It comprises 1627 statute acres, chiefly under tillage and in a high state of cultivation; there is no waste land or bog. About 20 acres have been lately reclaimed from the slab of the river by the Rev. R. Bury, and brought into cultivation. Limestone abounds, and is worked to a considerable extent for agricultural and building purposes, and as ballast for vessels sailing without cargoes from the port of Cork, for which latter purpose a contract has been entered into by Mr. J. Cantillon, jun., with the Ballast Board. The island is embellished with several handsome seats, the principal of which are Wallinstown House, the residence of Phineas Bury, Esq., the principal proprietor, containing within the demesne the ruins of an ancient church or chapel, and of the castle of Wallinstown; Sun Lodge, formerly the seat of the Rt. Hon. Silver Oliver, and now of his grandson, Silver Chas. Oliver, Esq.; Carrigrenane, the residence of J. M. Ashlin, Esq.; Flaxforth, of R. Martin, Esq.; Rockfarm, of J. Cantillon, Esq.; and Castleview, the property of W. H. Jackson, Esq., at present unoccupied. Carrigrenan is situated on a small undulating peninsula tastefully laid out and commanding a variety of interesting views of the river and its highly cultivated shores. There are several other seats, chiefly handsome modern mansions; a pure atmosphere, fertile soil, and sylvan scenery having induced several wealthy individuals to settle, on this small but beautiful island. It is a rectory and vicarage, in the diocese of Cork, forming part of the union of Rathcoony, formerly Cahirlog; the tithes amount to £180. In the R. C. divisions it is part of the union or district of Glauntane, or New Glanmire. About 90 children are educated in a private school. A school-house, built by Phineas Bury, Esq., has been converted into a working-school. The only remains of antiquity are the small chapel or oratory formerly called Sancti Lappani, and the ruined tower of Wallinstown Castle, before mentioned; they are situated nearly adjoining each other under some aged trees, whose gloom finely contrasts with the verdure of the adjacent lawn and shrubbery.

LITTLETON, a post-town, in the parish of BORRISLEIGH, barony of ELIOGARTY, county of TIPPERARY, and province of MUNSTER, 4 miles (E.) from Thurles, and 79 (S.) from Dublin, on the road by Cashel to Cork; containing 44 houses and 283 inhabitants. This place is of modern date, having been chiefly erected by the late Rev. Thomas Grady, who expended considerable sums on its buildings, and in the ornamental improvements of the vicinity: it is now the property of Valentine Maher, Esq. Here are a station of the constabulary police, a public dispensary, and the parochial church, which is a handsome structure with a tower and spire.

LIXNAW, or LISANAW, a village, partly in the parish of KILTORNEY or KILTOOMY, but chiefly in that of KILCARRAGH, barony of CLANMAURICE, county of KERRY, and province of LEINSTER, 5 1/2 miles (S. W.) from Listowel, near the high road from Tralee to Tarbert; containing 397 inhabitants. This place was once the seat of the Earls of Kerry, by whom the castle of Lixnaw was erected; and the old bridge was built and the town much improved by Nicholas, the third baron of Lixnaw, so early as 1320. The castle was garrisoned in 1600 by Sir Chas. Wilmot's forces, who took it by surprise just when it had been undermined for demolition: they made it the centre of operations in this district until it was taken by Lord Kerry, who here kept Sir Chas. Wilmot's forces at bay, but at length entrusted its defence to his brother Gerald, who was compelled to surrender from want of water. The village is situated near the river Brick, over which, at a short distance from each other, are two stone bridges: it consists of two streets of tolerably good houses, and contains a spacious R. C. chapel, and a school supported by subscription, to which Mrs. Raymond contributes £6 per annum. A court for the manor of Lixnaw is held every three weeks, on Monday, for the recovery of debts not exceeding 40s. late currency. A patent exists for four fairs, but they are not at present held. Limestone of superior quality, in some places approaching to marble, is found in the vicinity, and worked both for useful and ornamental purposes; and sea-weed and sand for manure are brought in boats up the river Cashen and thence by the Brick to the town. It is stated that these rivers might be made navigable for larger vessels at a very moderate expense; and Mr. Nimmo, the government engineer, many years since, suggested a plan for that purpose, and for draining and bringing into cultivation the extensive tracts of marsh and bog in the neighbourhood. The R. C. district of Lixnaw comprises the parishes of Kilcarragh and Kiltoomy, and the greater portions of Dysert, Finuge, Kilshinane, and Kilfeighny; and contains the chapels of Lixnaw, or Ballinageragh, and Iveamore. The former, which was erected in 1S05, has a painting of the crucifixion over the altar, executed in a superior style by an Italian artist. Adjoining the village are the ruins of the old church, and the extensive remains of the ancient castellated mansion of the earls of Kerry; and on a mount at a short distance to the north-east is a monument, or mausoleum, of John, the third Earl, of a circular form, resting on a square base and terminating in a dome; whence an extensive view of the surrounding country is obtained. Lixnaw gives the inferior title of Baron to the Marquess of Lansdowne.

LOBBINSTOWN.-- See KILLEARY.

LOCKEEN, or LOUGHKEEN, also called LOGHCAYNE, a parish, in the barony of LOWER ORMOND, county of TIPPERARY, and province of MUNSTER, 3 1/2 miles (S. W.) from Parsonstown, on the road to Nenagh; containing 2691 inhabitants. It is situated on the river Brosna, which forms the boundary between this and King's county, and comprises 8165 statute acres as applotted under the tithe act; the greater portion of the land is arable, and the system of agriculture is improving green crops being now generally cultivated: limestone is found, adapted for building. At Carrig are the flour-mills of Mr. Christopher Dignam. The seats are Tinnakilly, the residence of Robt. Robinson, Esq.; Riverstown, of Simpson Hackett, Esq.; Wingfield, of Thos. Doolan, Esq.; Gurteen, of Geo. Smith, Esq.; Ivy Hall, of R. Palmer, Esq.; Elm Hall, of Peter Burke, Esq.; Lacka, of W. Cruess, Esq.; and the glebe-house, of the Rev. F. Synge. The living is a vicarage, in the diocese of Killaloe, and in the patronage of the Bishop; the rectory forms the corps of the prebend of Lockeen in the cathedral of Killaloe, also in the Bishop's patronage. The tithes amount to £350, of which £232. 6. 8. is payable to the prebendary, and the remainder to the vicar. The glebe-house is a handsome building, towards the erection of which the late Board of First Fruits gave £400, and lent £200, in 1829. The erection of the church, which is a neat modern edifice, was aided by a gift of £300 from the same Board. In the R. C. divisions the parish forms part of the union or district of Birr, or Parsonstown, and has a chapel at Carrig. A school of about 50 children is supported by the proprietor of the estate, and there are three private schools containing about 100 children. At Glahaskeen are the ivied ruins of an old castle, and at Castletown are those of another; there are also some remains of the old church.

LOGHAN, or LOUGHAN, a parish, partly in the barony of CASTLERAHAN, county of CAVAN, and province of ULSTER, but chiefly in the barony of UPPER KELLS, county of MEATH, and province of LEINSTER, 4 miles (N. W.) from Kells, on the road from Dublin by Kells to Enniskillen; containing 3795 inhabitants, of which number, 339 are in the village of Loghan. This parish, which is also called Castlekeiran and Tristelkerin, contains also the villages of Rathendrick, Derver, and Castlekeiran, and is situated on the river Blackwater, near its source in Lough Ramor. It is a rectory, in the diocese of Meath, entirely impropriate in the Marquess of Headfort: the tithes amount to £250. The impropriator allows £10 per annum to the curate of Mounter-Connaught parish for performing the occasional duties of that part of Loghan which lies in the county of Cavan, and of which the Protestant inhabitants attend Virginia church: those of the Meath portion attend the church of Kells. In the R. C. divisions Loghan forms part of the union or district of Carnaross, or Dulane. At Edenburt is a national school of about 60 children, aided by the Marquess of Headfort; and at Carnaross is a private school of about the same number. On the banks of the river are the remains of a small church, dedicated to St. Kieran, with a large and richly sculptured stone cross in the cemetery; here is also a holy well, much resorted to by the peasantry on the first Sunday in August.

LONDONDERRY (County of), a maritime county of the province of ULSTER, bounded on the south and south-west by the county of Tyrone; on the west, by that of Donegal; on the north-west, by Lough Foyle; on the north, by the Atlantic Ocean; and on the east, by the county of Antrim. It extends from 54° 37' to 55° 12' (N. Lat.), and from 6° 26' to 7° 18' (W. Lon.); and comprises an area, according to the Ordnance survey, of 518,423 acres, of which 388,817 are cultivated, 119,202 are mountain waste and bog, and 10,404 are occupied by water. The population, in 1821, was 193,869, and in 1831, 222,012.

The river Foyle appears to have been the Argita, and the Bann the Logia, of Ptolemy; and the intervening territory, constituting the present county of Londonderry, formed, according to this geographer, part of the country of the Darnii or Darini, whose name appears to be perpetuated in the more modern designation of "Derry." The earliest internal evidence represents it as being chiefly the territory of the O'Cathans, O'Catrans or O'Kanes, under the name of Tir Cahan or Cathan-aght, signifying "O'Kane's country:" they were a branch of and tributary to the O'Nials, and their chief seat was at a place now called the Deer Park, in the vale of the Roe. When their country was reduced to shire ground by Sir John Perrot, in the reign of Elizabeth, it was intended that Coleraine should be the capital; and the county was therefore designated, and long bore the name of, "the county of Coleraine," although it is a singular fact that the ruins of the court-house and gaol then built for the county are at Desertmartin, 15 miles from the proposed capital. Derry was seized by the English towards the close of Elizabeth's reign, for the purpose of checking the power of O'Nial and O'Donnel; and when the earls of Tyrone and Tyrconnel fled the country, in 1607, nearly the whole of six counties in Ulster were confiscated. At this period the southern side of the county appears to have been possessed by the O'Donnels, O'Conors, and O'Murrys: the O'Cahans were not among the attainted septs, and consequently, in the ensuing schemes of plantation, many of them were settled among the native freeholders by Jas. I., though they afterwards forfeited their estates in the subsequent civil war.

King James, conceiving the citizens of London to be the ablest body to undertake the establishment of a Protestant colony in the forfeited territory, directed overtures to be made to the municipal authorities; and on Jan. 28th, 1609, articles of agreement were entered into between the Lords of the Privy Council and the Committees appointed by act of Common Council. On the part of the citizens it was stipulated, that they should expend £20,000 on the plantation; and on the other hand, the Crown was to assign to them entire possession of the county of Coleraine, and the towns of Coleraine and Derry, with extensive lands attached, excepting 60 acres out of every 1000 for church lands and certain portions to be assigned to three native Irish gentlemen. To this extensive grant the king added the woods of Glenconkene and Killetragh, and ordained that the whole should be held with the amplest powers and privileges, such as the patronage of the churches, admiralty jurisdiction on the coasts, the fishery of the two great rivers and all other streams, &c. For the management of this new branch of their affairs the Common Council elected a body of twenty-six, consisting, as at present, of a governor, deputy-governor, and assistants, of whom one-half retire every year, and their places are supplied by a new election. In 1613, this company or court was incorporated by royal charter under its present style of "The Society of the Governor and Assistants of London of the New Plantation in Ulster, within the Realm of Ireland;" but is commonly known as the "Irish Society," and was invested with all the towns, castles, lordships, manors, lands, and hereditaments given to the city, which were erected by the charter into a distinct county, to be called "the County of Londonderry." The sum of £40,000 having now been expended on the plantation, it was deemed most advantageous to divide the territorial possessions of the Society into twelve equal portions, which were appropriated by lot to each of the twelve chief companies of the city, and so many of the smaller companies joined as made by their total contributions a twelfth of the entire sum. The twelve chief companies were the Mercers, Grocers, Drapers, Fishmongers, Goldsmiths, Skinners, Merchant Tailors, Haberdashers, Salters, Ironmongers, Vintners, and Clothworkers; and in their respective proportions is now included the chief part of the county. The houses and lands in the city of Londonderry and the town of Coleraine, with their woods, fisheries and ferries (except that at the estuary of the Foyle, connecting the county with that of Donegal, which belonged to the Chichesters), not being susceptible of division, were retained by the Society, who were to receive the profits, and account for them to the twelve chief companies. In 1616, information was received by Sir Thomas Philips of Newtown Limavady of a design formed by the Irish to surprise Londonderry and Coleraine, which being communicated to the Irish Government effectual measures were adopted for its prevention. On the communication of the intelligence to the Irish Society instructions were immediately issued by it to the twelve companies to furnish arms and accoutrements to be transmitted by the keeper of Guildhall for the better defence of the plantation, the prompt execution of which preserved the colony and gave new vigour to the exertions to stock it with English and Scotch settlers. About the same period directions were also issued to the companies to repair the churches, to furnish each of the ministers with a bible, common-prayer book and communion cup, and to send thither a stipulated number of artizans; the trades thus introduced were those of weavers, hat-makers, locksmiths, farriers, tanners, fellmongers, ironmongers, glassblowers, pewterers, fishermen, turners, basketmakers, tallowchandlers, dyers and curriers. The Salters' company erected glasshouses at Magherafelt, and iron-works were opened on the Mercers' proportion near Kilrea which were carried on until timber failed for fuel. Notwithstanding the disbursement of large sums of money, at length amounting to £60,000, continued dissatisfaction was expressed by the Crown at the mode in which the stipulations of the society were fulfilled: in 1632, the whole county was sequestered; and in 1637, the charter was cancelled, and the county seized into the king's hands. Parliament, however, decreed the illegality of these proceedings; Cromwell restored the Society to its former state; and on the Restoration, Chas. II. granted it a new charter, nearly in the same words as that of James, under which its affairs have ever since been conducted. Of the twelve principal companies, all retain their estates except four, viz., the Goldsmiths, Haberdashers Vintners, and Merchant Tailors, who at various periods disposed of their proportions to private individuals. The Goldsmiths' share was situated mostly within the liberties of Derry, south-east of the Foyle; that of the Haberdashers was around Aghanloo and Bovevagh. The Vintners had Bellaghy, and the Merchant Tailors' proportion was Macosquin. These proportions are now held in perpetuity by the Marquess of Waterford, the Richardsons, the Ponsonbys, the Alexanders, and the heirs of the late Right Hon. Thomas Conolly. Of the estates now belonging to the other eight companies, the Mercers have Kilrea and its neighbourhood; the Grocers, Muff and its dependencies; Moneymore and its rich and improved district belongs to the Drapers; the Fishmongers have Ballykelly; Dungiven belongs to the Skinners; Magherafelt to the Salters; Aghadowey to the Ironmongers; and Killowen, forming part of the borough of Coleraine, to the Clothworkers; all are under lease, except those of the Drapers, Mercers, and Grocers, which are managed by agents, deputed by these respective companies. The first intimation of the intended insurrection in 1641 came from Moneymore, in this county, through Owen O'Conolly, an Irish Protestant, in time to save Dublin, but not to prevent the explosion of the plot in the north. On the first day of the explosion Moneymore was seized by the Irish, and Maghera and Bellaghy, then called Vintners'-town, burned, as were most of the other towns and villages throughout the county. On the termination of the war the county and the city fell under the dominion of the parliament, and Sir Charles Coote and Governor Hunks ruled there with great severity. From the restoration to the revolution the county affords few materials for history; the siege of Londonderry, one of the most striking events of the latter period, more properly belongs to the history of the city.

The county is chiefly in the diocese of Derry, with some portions in those of Armagh and Connor. For the purposes of civil jurisdiction it is divided into the city and liberties of Londonderry, the town and liberties of Coleraine, and the baronies of Coleraine, Tirkeeran, Kenaught, and Loughinsholin. It contains the city of Londonderry; the borough and market-town of Coleraine; the disfranchised borough, market and post-town of Newtown-Limavady; the market and post-towns of Castledawson, Dungiven, Draperstown, Moneymore, Garvagh, Magherafelt, and Maghera; and the post-towns of Bellaghy, Kilrea, and Tubbermore. The principal villages are Articlave, Ballykelly, Claudy, Muff, Portstewart (each of which has a penny-post), Ballyronan, Desertmartin, and Swattragh. It sent eight members to the Irish parliament, two for the county, two for the city and two each for the boroughs of Coleraine and Newtown-Limavady. Since the Union it has sent only four to the Imperial parliament, two for the county, one for the city, and one for the borough of Coleraine; those for the city and county are elected in the city of Londonderry. The county constituency as registered up to the October sessions of 1836, consists of 239 £50, 198 £20, and 1402 £10 freeholders; 41 £20 and 412 £10 leaseholders; and 7 £50, and 32 £20 rent-chargers; making a total of 2331 registered electors. Londonderry is included in the north-west circuit: the assizes are held in the city, and quarter sessions are held there and at Coleraine, Newtown-Limavady, and Magherafelt. The county gaol and court-house are in Londonderry, and there are courthouses and bridewells at each of the other sessions towns. The local government is vested in a lieutenant, a vice-lieutenant, 8 deputy-lieutenants, and 61 other magistrates; besides whom there are the usual county officers, including four coroners, one for the city, one for the borough of Coleraine, and two for the county at large. Of its civil jurisdiction it is remarkable that, like the county of Middlesex, its sheriffs are those elected by the citizens of its capital, who serve for the whole, excepting the liberties of Coleraine: the town-clerk of Londonderry, also, is the clerk of the peace for the county at large. There are 19 constabulary police stations, having in the whole a force of a stipendiary magistrate, a sub-inspector, a paymaster, 4 chief officers, 20 constables, 83 men, and 6 horses. The District Lunatic Asylum, and County Infirmary are in the city of Londonderry, and there are dispensaries at Londonderry, Bellaghy,Tamlaght O'Crilly, Port-stewart, Dungiven, Magherafelt, Maghera, Glendermot, Lower-Cumber, Newtown-Limavady, Coleraine, Killowen, Moneymore, Aghadowey, Ballynascreen, and Garvagh, which are supported equally by Grand Jury presentments, and by subscriptions from the Irish Society, the London companies, the landed proprietors, and other private individuals. For the convenience of holding petty sessions, the county is divided into the districts of Coleraine, Garvagh, Innisrush, Maghera, Moneymore, Magherafelt, Kilrea, Inver, city of Londonderry, Newtown-Limavady, Muff, Dungiven, and Clady. The amount of Grand Jury presentments for the county and city, for the year 1835, was £23,996. 16. 1., of which £1756. 12. 7. was for the roads, bridges, buildings, &c., of the county at large; £7464. 16. 3. for the roads, bridges, &c., of the baronies; £8702. 11. 10. for public buildings, charities, salaries of officers, and incidents; £2066. 17. 6. for the police; and £4005. 17. 11. for repayment of advances made by Government. In the military arrangements the county is included in the northern district.

In form the county approaches to an equilateral triangle: its greatest length is from the point of Magilligan, at the mouth of Lough Foyle, nearly southward, to the vicinity of Coagh, a distance of 32 1/2 miles. Although by no means distinguished for picturesque beauty, its surface presents many varieties of form, from the flat alluvial lands along its rivers to the wildest mountains. The latter form its central portion, extending in various chains, covered chiefly with heath, from near the sea-coast to the southern limit. Sawel mountain, in the south, attains an elevation of 2236 feet; Slieve Gallion rises to the height of 1730 feet; Carntogher, near the source of the Roe, 1521 feet; Donald's Hill, east of the same river, 1315 feet; Benyevenagh, forming the termination of that range towards the sea, 1260 feet; and Legavannon, between the Roe and the Faughan, 1289 feet. Even in these wild regions there are secluded vales, called by the inhabitants "slacks," in which are often found charming spots of fertile soil and romantic scenery. The principal of these are, Faughanvale, where there are some romantic waterfalls; Muff-glen, which, with the beautiful glen of the Ness, affords mountain passes from the Foyle to the Faughan; Laughermore, between the Roe and the Faughan, which commands various fine prospects, and has in its vicinity numerous traces of ancient forests; Lissane, with some deep romantic glens; Feeny, between the higher parts of the Roe and the Faughan, into which several other glens open, of which the most beautiful is Fin-glen; the neighbouring slacks of Moneyniceny and Carntogher; that of Ballyness, leading into the wild district of Glenullen; that of Dunmore, between Coleraine and Newtown-Limavady; and that of Druim-na-Gullion, to the north. The most extensive and diversified view in this part of Ireland, is that from the summit of Benyevenagh, near the mouth of the Roe, from which mountain the huge masses of fallen strata form successive terraces descending to the sandy flats bounded by Lough Foyle and the ocean.

The great natural divisions of the profitable lands are, the rich and fertile vales of the Roe, the Faughan, the Foyle (with the liberties of Londonderry), the Moyola, the shores of Lough Neagh, the half valley of the Bann (with the liberties of Coleraine), and the sea coast with the flats of Lough Foyle. The longest of the vales opening from the mountains is that of the Roe, environed by hills appropriated as sheepwalks, and in many places having midway up their declivities a sort of natural terrace, frequently two or three hundred yards in breadth. To the west is the nearly parallel vale of Faughan, which, next to those of the Roe and the Moyola, displays, from Clondermot to the coast of Lough Foyle, one of the most delightful tracts in the county: a considerable portion, however, is occupied by rough though valuable turbaries, while other parts are clothed with natural wood: in the higher part the scenery is frequently romantic, and in other places is improved by round alluvial hills. The vale of the Foyle is highly improved, and comprises the western extremity of the county, in which stands the city of Londonderry. The rich vale of Moyola extends from the eastern side of the mountains of Ballynascreen, towards Lough Neagh, being bounded on the south by Slieve Gallion. The borders of Lough Neagh form a low tract which presents a rich landscape, its surface being composed partly of gentle swells, and its fertility broken only by some extensive bogs. Around Ballinderry are considerable steeps, and at Spring Hill and over the town of Moneymore is a beautiful range of high land: beyond this extends a rich low tract called "the Golden Vale of Ballydawley." Lough Neagh bounds the county for nearly six miles, when the Bann, issuing from it, immediately falls into Lough Beg, the Londonderry shore of which is five miles in extent. The half valley of the Bann is composed of bleak ridges or tummocks of basalt, with a few more favoured spots near the streams, but accompanied by a series of scattered bogs, bordering the course of the river. These sometimes comprise high and barren swells, with lakes and small bogs intervening. About Tubbermore, Fort William, and Maghaer, however, there is a pleasing and more fertile tract; and the interior of the district bordering on the Bann is greatly enlivened by the woody scenery around Garvagh. The sea coast, formed by the Atlantic for 12 miles from Portrush to Magilligan point, and thence for 16 miles by Lough Foyle, exhibits a succession of varied and interesting scenery. Commencing with Portrush it presents a number of creeks and inlets, of which the most remarkable is Port-Stewart, whence to the mouth of the Bann is a strand of great extent and beauty, succeeded by a range of cliffs rising boldly from the sea, on the summit of one of which is the mansion of Down Hill and Mussenden Temple, built by the Earl of Bristol, Bishop of Derry. From Down Hill to Magilligan Point, a distance of 7 miles, is a strand extending a mile in breadth from the base of the mountains to the water's edge, and on which the whole army of Great Britain might be reviewed. Thence the coast turns nearly due south to the mouth of the Roe, presenting a dreary expanse in which is seen only a deserted house half covered by drifted sand, and a martello tower, after which a varied tract of highly improved land continues to the mouth of Londonderry harbour.

The soil is of great variety. The vale of the Roe chiefly consists of gravelly loams of different degrees of fertility; the levels on the banks of the river are very rich; and though the higher grounds are sometimes intermingled with cold clays, there is scarcely any unproductive land in it. In the vale of Faughan good loams are found in the lowest situations. Bond's glen, which joins it, and rests on a limestone base, is one of the most fertile spots in the county. The valley of the Foyle is also a strong loam below, declining in fertility and depth towards the heights. In the vale of Moyola are levels of the richest quality, but liable to great ravages by floods. In the district bordering on Loughs Neagh and Beg are found sharp gravelly soils of decayed granite, with some moorland, and then extensive swells of sandy loam with intervening flats of great fertility and some bog. Along the sea coast the soil is an intermixture of silicious and calcareous sand, occasionally covered with peat. At the mouth of the Bann these sands form hillocks, kept from shifting by the roots of bent-grass and available only as rabbit-warrens; nearly the whole of Magilligan strand is warren, followed by sandy hills covered with bent, and extensive tracts of bog. Beyond Walworth, along the shores of Lough Foyle, the beach is covered with herbage, forming salt marshes greatly esteemed for grazing horses. Lough Foyle is a large gulf, which, communicating with the Atlantic by a very narrow mouth, opens into a fine expanse, extending 15 miles into the country to the city of Londonderry, and being 7 miles across where broadest. Though there are shifting sand banks in some parts, the largest vessel may ride in safety in it in all weathers. The principal part of the mountain soils is based on basalt, generally presenting nothing to the view but bleak knolls rising out of the bog and covered with heath or marshy plants: In some more favoured situations the soil, though poor and loose, produces an herbage greedily depastured by sheep; and in the slacks or glens are found loams of better quality, varying in texture according to the soil of the hills from which they have been deposited.

The fertile soils are chiefly under tillage, in farms varying in size from 2 to 200 acres and averaging eight. Though wheat is cultivated on some of the richest soils, barley is grown to a far more considerable extent, especially in the districts bordering on Lough Neagh, also around Myroe and Coleraine; the other crops most extensively raised are oats, potatoes, and flax; barley is said to pay the summer's rent and flax the winter's. Beans were formerly grown in vast quantities in Aghanloo and in Myroe, and rye in some of the lower districts, but both are now uncommon; four kinds of wheat, red, white, plain and bearded are sown, the produce of which varies from twelve to twenty barrels per acre; of barley, which is all of the four-rowed kind, called bere or Scotch barley, from eight to fourteen barrels of 21 stone (one-half more than the wheat measure); and of oats, of which the brown Poland, light-foot, blantire and potato oat are commonly sown, from 30 to 70 bushels per acre. Potatoes yield from 200 to 800 bushels per acre. An acre of good flax will produce twelve stocks, each yielding seventy-two pounds of clean scutched flax; but the common produce is one-third less. Turnips are grown by all the gentry and leading farmers, and mangel wurzel is a favourite crop with some; but its cultivation is yet imperfectly understood. The principal artificial grass is clover, to which the annual and perennial ray are sometimes added: these seeds are generally sown as the last crop of a course, but the common farmers seldom sow any, trusting to the powers of the soil and the humidity of the climate to restore the herbage: the prevailing kind is, in marshy situations, the fiorin, or jointed grass, which produces crops of amazing weight and good quality. Of manures, lime, which can be procured in almost every part of the county, is in most extensive use, that of Desertmartin being esteemed the best; the contiguous marl is also used, especially at Cruint-ballyguillen, or the Leck. In the maritime districts, and from six to ten miles inland, a favourite manure is sea-shells brought by boats from islands in Lough Foyle . the shells are chiefly oyster, muscle, and cockle; from 30 to 60 barrels are spread on an acre. Shelly sand is also gathered from the coast and from the shores of the Bann: trenching and throwing the mould on an unturned ridge, and the burning of peat for the ashes, are likewise practised. The breeds of cattle of every kind are much improved by judicious crossing; Derry not being a sheep-feeding county, the attention of the farmers has been less turned to this species of stock; yet some of the gentry have large flocks. Pigs are to be found in almost every house and cottage; they are usually slaughtered at home and the carcasses sent to market for the supply of the provision merchants of Belfast, Londonderry, and Coleraine. Of the horses, one breed is the active, hardy mountain garran, of a bay or sorrel colour and slight make: the Scottish highland horses are likewise in great request, and, together with a cross with the sinewy draught horse, are in common use. A cross with the blood horse has also been introduced. Myroe is famous for good cattle. All the improved agricultural implements are in general use; the advances made in every department of rural economy have been considerably promoted by the exertions of the North-West Farming Society, which holds its meetings in Londonderry and receives an annual donation of ten guineas from the Irish Society of London. Among wild fowl, one species is very remarkable, the barnacle, which frequents Lough Foyle in great numbers, and is here much esteemed for the sweetness of its flesh, in like manner as at Wexford and Strangford, though elsewhere rank and unsavoury: this difference arises from its here feeding on the fucus saccharinus. The ancient abundance of timber is evinced both by tradition and public documents, also by the abundance of pine found in all the bogs, of yew at Magilligan, and of fossil oak and fir in the mosses, even in the most exposed situations; but the woods have been wholly demolished by the policy of clearing the country, the lavish waste of fuel, the destruction made by exporting staves (once the staple of the county), and the demand for charcoal for smelting lead and iron. Coal, chiefly from Lancashire, is the principal fuel of the respectable classes in Londonderry and its vicinity. English, Scotch, and Ballycastle coals are used at Coleraine: but almost the universal fuel of the county is turf; in the fertile and thickly inhabited districts many of the bogs are exhausted, and recourse has been had to those of the mountains.

Geologically the county is composed of two great districts, divided into two nearly equal portions by the course of the Roe. The western is the extensive mountain tract reaching from that river to Strabane, in which mica slate predominates in such proportions as to compose nine-tenths of the whole; it is accompanied by primitive limestone in the lower districts, especially in those bordering on the vale of the Roe. On the eastern bank of the same river this system of mountains is succeeded by a range of secondary heights, reposing on and concealing the mica slate, which dips under them eastward. On these is piled a vast area of basalt, forming the basis of almost the entire country between the Roe and the Bann. These basaltic strata dip with the fall of the hills towards the north-east, to meet the opposite dip of the strata on the other side of the Bann, forming the other half of this great basaltic tract. The covering of basalt appears to acquire its greatest thickness on the north, where, as in the cap of Benyevenagh, it is more than 900 feet thick. Between the basalt and the subjacent mica slate are found in close succession many of the most important formations which occupy a great part of the southern and eastern counties of England. Next to the basalt (descending westward towards Lough Foyle and the vale of the Roe, and to the rich lands in the vale of Moyola and its vicinity) is found chalk, in beds of an aggregate thickness of about 200 feet, analogous to the lower beds of the English chalk formation, and therefore approaching in character to white limestone, being used and commonly designated as such. Even in its fossils and organic remains, this chalk is perfectly identified with that of England. Next is seen mulatto, precisely analogous to the green sandstone formations of England: the mulatto rests immediately on a lias limestone, blue and argillaceous, disposed in small beds alternating with slate clay, and distinguished by ammonites, gryphites, and other fossil remains. The lias, in turn, reposes, as in England, on beds of red and variegated marl, containing gypsum, and even distinguished by numerous salt springs; and this marl is underlaid by a thick deposit of red and variegated sandstone, containing clay galls, and in its turn incumbent on the mica slate formation. Sometimes, however, the mulatto and lias are entirely wanting, and the chalk may be seen immediately resting on the sandstone, both of which are constant and continuous. The deep valleys separating the detached eminences of the basalt region afford abundant evidence of their formation in excavations of part of the solid strata by some vast convulsions or operations of nature. North-east of the source of the Roe is a small detached district of mica slate, nearly surrounded by the basaltic ridges of Benbradagh and Cragnashoack, and forming the entire mass of the mountain of Coolcoscrahan. The mountain limestone, which is micaceous and granular, occurs to the most remarkable extent on the north-west side of Carntogher mountain, in Bennady glen, near the old church at Dungiven, at Banagher, near Clady, near Newtown-Limavady, and on Slieve Gallion mountain, where it contains crystallised hornblende in abundance. Hornblende slate occurs in Bennady glen, Aglish glen, and the bed of the Roe river near Dungiven, where it is contiguous to the primitive limestone. Porphyry is the fundamental rock on the east side of Slieve Gallion, and one variety resembles sienite, with which it is in connection. Transition trap also occurs on Slieve Gallion.

The transition limestone, intervening in a few places between the primitive formations and the sandstone, is of the same kind as that which occupies so great a portion of the central counties: it is of a smoke grey colour, contains two sorts of terebratulites, and nodules of glassy quartz, which render it dangerous to blast; but being, nevertheless, the best species in the county for manure and all ordinary purposes, it is most extensively quarried. The sandstone extends the entire length of the county, from its northern extremity near Down hill up the eastern side of the Roe, and surrounding Cragnashoack and Carntogher mountains, whence it stretches by the eastern declivity of Slieve Gallion into the county of Tyrone. The upper strata of chalk are characterised by parallel beds of flinty nodules; and, at their junction with the basalt, these flints are found imbedded in the lowest member of the trap deposit: it is curiously affected by intersecting dykes filled with basalt. The only great geological phenomenon exhibited on the sea-coast is the gradual emergence of the chalk from under the trap beds. The basalt is chiefly tabular, with the varieties called greenstone, amygdaloidal wacké, &c. A laminated schist of the mica slate formation is quarried between Derry and Newtown; there is a good quarry of lamellated schist between Bond's glen and Gossaden; gneiss occurs in the quarries of the mica slate near the Faughan river; granite on the northern summit of Slieve Gallion; the finest rock crystals are found in Finglen, Dungiven, Banagher, and in the primitive mountains near Learmount; and steatite is found in the basaltic region. Iron is found disseminated through many of the strata of the county, and in the basalt is sometimes so abundant as to affect the needle. Ironstone, found in great abundance in Slieve Gallion, was formerly worked, but the undertaking was abandoned on the failure of fuel. The metal is found in a mixed state with manganese; and in the mountain streams mounds of it are observed in the character of yellow ochre. To the abundance of this metal in the peat moss are owing the red colour and weight of the ashes. Coal, copper, and lead have been found in very small quantities.

The staple manufacture is that of linen, of which the raw material is grown here, chiefly from American and Riga seed, though partly from Dutch, which is most esteemed. The flax is spun by the rural population, and the weavers themselves are husbandmen; so that during seed-time and harvest the loom is abandoned. The flax is generally spun from three to four hanks in the pound weight, and the tow yarn is made into sacking for home use. The coarser yarn is carried to Londonderry to be exported to Liverpool for Manchester, and some to Scotland, the finer being disposed of at Coleraine, Newtown, &c. The fabric made in Coleraine is the finest, and all webs of the same texture, wherever manufactured, are called Coleraines. The fabrics of Londonderry are of two kinds, one only twenty-seven inches wide, made of tow yarn, and called Derry wrappers; the other thirty-two inches wide, and made of fine yarn. Considerable quantities of linens are exported unbleached; the coarse chiefly to Liverpool. The white linens are shipped from Londonderry or Coleraine to Liverpool or London. Coarse red pottery is made at Agivey, and at some other places. There are several distilleries and breweries, and numerous corn and flour mills. The coast abounds with all the ordinary kinds of fish, which are taken for home consumption; but the principal fisheries are those of salmon and eels in the Bann, which are superior in extent to any others in Ireland, employing a great number of persons; almost the entire produce of salmon is exported. There are several other considerable fisheries along the sea-coast and in the small rivers; but most of the salmon brought to the provincial markets comes from a distance of several miles, and is much inferior to that of the Bann. The commerce of the county centres in the city of Londonderry and the town of Coleraine, but chiefly the former. At Ballyronan, on Lough Neagh, vessels of sixty tons' burden can unlade, and, though the exports are inconsiderable, timber, iron, slates, coal, flax seed, hardware, and groceries are landed in large quantities.

The principal rivers are the Foyle, the Bann, the Roe, and the Faughan. The Foyle, which derives its name from the smoothness of its current, intersects the liberties of the city of Londonderry, in a majestic course north-eastward, having descended from Lifford, where, after the union of several important streams, it first obtains its name: at Culmore, six miles below the city, which it appears formerly to have insulated, it expands into the estuary of Lough Foyle. The Bann, or "White River," so called from the purity of its waters, intersects the liberties of Coleraine, within four miles of its junction with the ocean; but the navigation is greatly obstructed by shallows and a very dangerous bar, where the currents of the fresh water and the tide meet. The Roe, or "Red River," so called from the colour of its waters, receives at Dungiven the Owen-Reagh: hence, in its course directly north, it receives from the mountains on each side the Owen-Beg, the Gelvin-water, the Balteagh river, and the Castle and Curley rivers; and winding through the fertile flat by Newtown-Limavady, it falls into Lough Foyle at Myroe. The flat country bordering the lower part of its course is exposed to sudden and impetuous floods poured down from the surrounding mountains: many acres of the finest lands are with difficulty defended by embankments, and even with this protection the securing of the crop is never a matter of certainty. The deposits brought down by this river form many shifting banks in the Lough, which prevent its mouth from becoming a convenient little port, although there is sufficient depth of water at high tides. The Faughan in its course receives numerous rills and streams from the surrounding heights, and falls into Lough Foyle. The Moyola is a considerable stream descending into Lough Neagh; the principal tributaries of the Bann are the Clady, Agivey, and Macosquin streams. There are no canals connected with the county, but an inland navigation, either by a canal, or lateral cuts along the Bann, is contemplated from Lough Neagh to Coleraine, and a bill is now being applied for to enable the proprietors of the lands round the lake to lower it to a summer level, and thereby render the Bann navigable to Coleraine. The contemplated line of railway from Armagh to Portrush will pass for more than 30 miles through the county, but no steps have yet been taken respecting it, beyond the selection of the line. The roads are numerous and highly important, several very useful lines have been made and others greatly improved solely at the expense of the Drapers' Company; all the other roads are made and kept in repair by Grand Jury presentments. Several new lines of road are contemplated, the principal of which is a mail road from Belfast to Derry, of which that portion from the Pullans to Coleraine is already commenced.

In the original plantation of the county in 1609, and the subsequent years, the English settlers were located in the fertile tracts along the borders of Loughs Foyle and Neagh, and the banks of the Roe and Bann; the Scotch were placed in the higher lands as a kind of military barrier between their more favoured brethren of the south country and the Irish, who, with the exception of a few native freeholders, were removed to the mountain districts. The varieties of religion corresponded with those of country, the English being Protestants of the Established Church; the Scotch, Presbyterians, or other sects of Protestant dissenters; and the Irish, Roman Catholics. This arrangement of severance long prevented, and still in some degree continues to prevent, the amalgamation of the several classes. The Irish, shut up within their secluded mountain ravines, retain many of their peculiarities of language, customs, and religion; those of Glenullin, though near a large Protestant settlement at Garvagh will admit none but members of their own church to reside among them, though in other respects they are on terms of great kindliness with their neighbours of a different creed, except when under the excitation of party animosity. The residences of many respectable gentlemen are in the cottage style, generally ornamented and surrounded with planting and gardens: the habitations of the rural population are of every description, from the slated two-story house of brick or stone, and the long narrow cottage with two or three partitions, to the cabin of dry stone or clay, without even a window. In the districts of Coleraine and Desertmartin, where lime is plentiful, the dwellings of the peasantry are neatly white-washed, and sometimes rough-cast, but in other parts they present a very sombre appearance.

Remains of its ancient inhabitants of every period are scattered over the county. There is a cromlech at Slaght Manus, another at Letter-Shandenny, a third at Slaghtaverty, and others at Bally-na-screen: some had been surrounded by a circle of upright stones. There are remains of sepulchral mounts or tumuli at Mullagh-cross, and a vast tumulus is seen at Dovine, between Newtown-Limavady and Coleraine, besides several of smaller dimensions. Numerous cairns are met with in every quarter, especially on the summits of the mountains. Near Dungiven is a very remarkable sepulchral pillar. Raths or Danish forts are likewise scattered in chains in every direction, each being generally within sight of two others: the most remarkable is that called the Giant's Sconce, anciently commanding the communication between the districts of New-town and Coleraine. Ditches enclosing spaces of from half a rood to several acres are also discernible contiguous to these forts. There is a curious mound surrounded with a moat on the road from Springhill to Lough Neagh; and another, of larger size, at Dungorkin, on the road from Cumber Clady through Loughermore. Ancient intrenchments of different character are seen at Prospect, and between Gortnagasan and Cathery. Various coins, pins, rings, and forks have been found about a moat near Lough Neagh, and, among other ancient instruments, quern stones have often been discovered. Hatchets made of hard basalt, spears of grey granite, and barbed arrow-heads of flint (the last sometimes neatly executed, and vulgarly called elf-stones) are very frequently found. Sometimes gold and silver coins, fibulae, and gorgets, with other ornaments, are dug up, but these are rare. There are many artificial caverns, which seem to have been designed for the concealment of goods, or for the refuge of families in case of sudden attack: the sides are built of common land stones without cement, and the roof is composed of flags, or long stones, but the vault is seldom high enough for the passage of a man in a stooping posture; they consist sometimes of different galleries, and the mouth was most usually concealed by a rock or grassy sod.

Besides the remains of monastic institutions in the city of Londonderry, seventeen others appear to have existed within the limits of the county; there are still remains of those situated respectively at Camus, Errigal, Tamlaghtfinlagan, Domnach-Dola, and Dungiven, at the last of which are the most interesting of all the ecclesiastical ruins. Near the old church of Banagher is a monastic building almost entire. There are few castles of Irish erection. Bally-reagh, on a rocky cliff overhanging the sea, is said to have belonged to one of the Mac Quillans; and a castle which stood near the church of Ballyaghran is reported to have been the abode of the chief of that sept. There were several English castles, with bawns and flankers, built by the London companies, one at least in every proportion of allotment, but they are all in ruins except Bellaghy, which is still occupied.

LONDONDERRY, a city and port, in the parish of TEMPLEMORE, and county of LONDONDERRY (of which it is the chief town), and province of ULSTER, 69 3/4 miles (N. W. by W.) from Belfast, and 118 1/2 (N. N. W.) from Dublin; containing 10,130 inhabitants. It was originally and is still popularly called Derry, from the Irish Doire, which signifies literally "a place of oaks," but is likewise used to express "a thick wood." By the ancient Irish it was also designated Doire-Calgaich, or Derry-Calgach, "the oak wood of Calgach;" and Adamnan, abbot of Iona in the 7th century, in the life of his predecessor, St. Columbkill, invariably calls it Roboretum Calgagi. About the end of the 10th century, the name Derry-Calgach gave place to Derry-Columbkill, from an abbey for canons regular of the order of St. Augustine founded here by that saint; but when the place grew into importance above every other Derry, the distinguishing epithet was rejected: the English prefix, London, was imposed in 1613, on the incorporation of the Irish Society by charter of Jas. I., and was for a long time retained by the colonists, but has likewise fallen into popular disuse. The city appears to be indebted for its origin to the abbey founded by St. Columbkill, according to the best authorities in 546, and said to have been the first of the religious houses instituted by that saint; but the exact period of its foundation and its early history are involved in much obscurity. In 783 and 812 the abbey and the town were destroyed by fire; at the latter period, according to the Annals of Munster, the Danes heightened the horrors of the conflagration by a massacre of the clergy and students. The place must have been speedily restored, as, in 832, the Danes were driven with great slaughter from the siege of Derry by Niall Caille, King of Ireland, and Murchadh, Prince of Aileach In 983, the shrine of St. Columbkill was carried away by the Danes, by whom the place was also thrice devastated about the close of the 10th century: in 1095 the abbey was consumed by fire. In 1100, Murtagh O'Brien arrived with a large fleet of foreign vessels and attacked Derry, but was defeated with great slaughter by the son of Mac Loughlin, prince of Aileach. Ardgar, prince of Aileach, was slain in an assault upon Derry in 1124; but on the 30th of March, 1135, the town with its churches was destroyed by fire, in revenge, as some state, of his death: it also sustained a similar calamity in 1149. In 1158, Flahertagh O'Brolchain, abbot of the Augustine monastery, was raised to the episcopacy and appointed supreme superintendent of all the abbeys under the rule of St. Columb, by a synodical decree of the Irish clergy assembled at Brigh-mac-Taidhg, in the north of Meath. O'Brolchain immediately commenced preparations for the erection of a new church on a larger scale; and in 1162 he removed more than 80 houses adjacent to the abbey church, and enclosed the abbey with a circular wall. In 1164 Temple More, or "the great church," was built, and the original abbey church was thenceforward distinguished as Duv Regles, or "the Black Church:" the new edifice was 240 feet long, and was one of the most splendid ecclesiastical structures erected in Ireland prior to the settlement of the Anglo-Normans; its site was near the Black Church, outside the present city wall, and is now chiefly occupied by the Roman Catholic chapel and cemetery; both edifices were entirely demolished by Sir Henry Docwra, governor of Derry, in 1600, and the materials used in the erection of the extensive works constructed at that period; but the belfry or round tower of the cathedral served till after the celebrated siege, and has given name to a lane called the Long Tower. In 1166 a considerable part of the town was burned by Rory O'Morna; and in 1195 the abbey was plundered by an English force, which was afterwards intercepted and destroyed at Armagh. In 1197, a large body of English forces having set out from the castle of Kill-Sanctain on a predatory excursion, came to Derry and plundered several churches, but were overtaken by Flahertach O'Maoldoraidh, lord of Tyrone and Tyrconnell, and some of the northern Hy-Niall, and a battle ensued on the shore of the adjoining parish of Faughanvale, in which the English were defeated with great slaughter. In this year Sir John De Courcy came with a large army and remained five nights; and in the following year also, having made an incursion into Tyrone to plunder the churches, he arrived at this place, and during his stay plundered Ennishowen and all the adjacent country; while thus engaged he received intelligence of the defeat of the English at Larne by Hugh Boy O'Nial, which caused him to quit Derry. In 1203 the town was much damaged by fire; and in 1211 it was plundered by Thomas Mac Uchtry and the sons of Randal Mac Donnell, who came hither with a fleet of 76 ships, and afterwards passed into Ennishowen and laid waste the whole peninsula. This Thomas and Rory Mac Randal again plundered the town in 1213, carrying away from the cathedral to Coleraine all the jewellery of the people of Derry and of the north of Ireland. A Cistercian nunnery was founded on the south side of the city in 1218, as recorded in the registry of the Honour of Richmond; but from the Annals of the Four Masters it appears that a religious establishment of this kind existed here prior to that period. Nial O'Nial plundered the town in 1222; and, in 1261, sixteen of the most distinguished of the clergy of Tyrone were slain here by Conor O'Nial and the Kinel-Owen or men of Tyrone. In 1274 a Dominican abbey was founded on the north side of the city, of which even the site cannot now be accurately traced.

Edw. II. granted the town to Richard de Burgo, Earl of Ulster, in 1311; but from this period till the reign of Elizabeth, prior to which the English exercised no settled dominion in Derry, no event of importance connected with the place is recorded. In 1565, Edward Randolph arrived in the Foyle with seven companies of foot and one troop of horse, to repress Shane O'Nial, Earl of Tyrone, who had renounced his allegiance to the English crown; and a sanguinary engagement taking place on the plains of Muff, the Irish chieftain was signally defeated. An encampment was then formed by the English near the city; but in a sally against some of O'Nial's forces, who had ostentatiously paraded before it, the English general was slain by a party who had concealed themselves in an adjoining wood, and the command of the garrison was given to Col. St. Lo. The English converted the cathedral into an arsenal, and on the 24th of April, 1566, the gunpowder blew up by accident with so much damage as to render the place untenable; the foot embarked for Dublin, to which city also the horse returned, passing through Tyrconnell and Connaught to avoid O'Nial. In 1599 it was again determined to fortify Derry, a measure long deemed essential in order to divide and check the power of O'Nial and O'Donell, the accomplishment of which object was favoured by its situation and the friendship of O'Dogherty of Ennishowen. With that view Sir Henry Docwra, in 1600, entered the Foyle with a British force of 4000 foot and 200 horse, and landed at Culmore, at the mouth of the river, where he erected a fort. He soon obtained possession of the city, and constructed fortifications and other works for its defence and improvement, pulling down the abbey, cathedral, and other ecclesiastical buildings for the sake of the materials. On the termination of the war at the commencement of 1603, the garrison was reduced to 100 horse and 150 foot under the governor, and 200 foot under Capt. Hansard; and at Culmore were left 20 men. Sir Henry now directed his attention to the improvement of the place with so much zeal as to entitle him to be regarded as the founder of the modern city. A number of English colonists settled here on his invitation; he obtained grants of markets and fairs, and, in 1604, a charter of incorporation with ample privileges. But in 1608, after the flight and forfeiture of O'Nial and O'Donell, the growing prosperity of the new city was checked by the insurrection of Sir Cahir O'Dogherty, the young chief of Ennishowen, who took both Culmore fort and Derry, at the latter of which Sir George Paulet (to whom Sir Henry Docwra had alienated all his interests) and his men were slain; as many of the inhabitants as could escape fled, and the town was plundered and burned. A large part of Ulster having escheated to the Crown on the attainder of the above-named earls, proposals of colonization were made to the city of London, in which this place is described as "the late ruinated city of Derry, which may be made by land almost impregnable." In accepting the offers of the Crown the city agreed to erect 200 houses here, and leave room for 300 more; 4000 acres contiguous to the city were to be annexed to it in perpetuity, exclusively of bog and barren mountain, which were to be added as waste; convenient sites were allowed for the houses of the bishop and dean; the liberties were to extend three miles or 3000 Irish paces in every direction from the centre of the city; and the London undertakers were to have the neighbouring fort of Culmore, with the lands attached, on condition of maintaining in it a competent ward of officers and men. In 1613 the inhabitants, having surrendered their former charter, were re-incorporated, and the name of the city was altered to Londonderry. The natives having conspired to take the town by surprise, a supply of arms was sent from London in 1615; an additional sum of £5000 was ordered for completing the walls; and, that it might not in future be peopled with Irish, the Society issued directions that a certain number of children from Christ's Hospital, and others, should be sent hither as apprentices and servants, and prohibited the inhabitants from taking Irish apprentices. Leases of most of the houses were granted for thirty-one years, and to each was allotted a portion of land according to the rent, with ground for gardens and orchards; 300 acres were assigned for the support of a free school; and of the 4000 acres the Society allotted to the houses or granted to the mayor 3217, including a parcel of 1500 acres which were set apart to support the magistracy of the city, and which subsequently became a source of contention between the Society, the corporation, and the bishop. In 1618 we find the fortifications completed, at an expense of £8357; but notwithstanding the adoption of these and other measures of improvement, the increase of houses and inhabitants was very slow, and the operations of the Society were made the ground of various representations to the Crown respecting the non-fulfilment of the conditions of planting. In 1622, commissioners were appointed to enquire into the affairs of the plantation, to whom the mayor and corporation presented a petition complaining of many grievances resulting from the conduct of the Society, one of the chief of which was the non-erection of the specified number of houses: this enquiry led to several sequestrations of the city and liberties until 1628, and for some time the rents were paid to the Crown.

In the rebellion of 1641 the English and Scottish settlers received a considerable supply of arms and ammunition from London, and having secured themselves within the walls, successfully defended the city from the attacks of the rebels under Sir Phelim O'Nial. In 1643 the inhabitants of Londonderry and Coleraine sent letters to the lords-justices urging their impoverished condition and praying for relief. Sir John Vaughan, the governor, having died this year, Sir Robert Stewart was appointed to the command of the garrison, of which five companies aided in his defeat of Owen O'Nial at Clones, on the 13th of June. Towards the close of the year the parliament having taken the covenant, the London adventurers sent over an agent with letters desiring that it should be taken within their plantation; but in the year following the mayor was ordered by the lord-lieutenant and council to publish a proclamation against it. Col. Audley Mervin, who had been appointed governor by the Marquess of Ormonde, was nevertheless obliged from expediency to take the covenant: in 1645 he was displaced by the parliament, and was succeeded by Lord Folliott. Sir C. Coote, the parliamentary general, having, in 1648, treacherously seized upon the person of Sir Robert Hamilton, forced him to surrender Culmore fort, by which the parliamentarians became masters of all the forts of Ulster, except Charlemont. The Marquess of Ormonde having failed in his attempts to induce Sir C. Coote to join the king's cause, the latter was blocked up in Derry by the royalists; and soon after the city and Culmore fort were regularly besieged by Sir Robert Stewart, who was subsequently joined by Sir G. Monroe and Lord Montgomery with their respective forces, and Chas. II. was proclaimed with great solemnity before the camp of Derry. The decapitation of the late king having excited general horror among the majority of the people of the north, they rose in arms and soon obtained possession of all the towns and places of strength in that quarter, except Derry and Culmore, which, after a siege of four months, and when the garrison, consisting of 800 foot and 180 horse, was reduced to the greatest extremities, were relieved by Owen Roe O'Nial, to whom Sir C. Coote had promised a reward of £5000 for this service; and by the defeat of Ever Mac Mahon, the Roman Catholic general, the following year, at Skirfolas in Donegal, Coote finally reduced all Ulster under the power of the parliament. After the Restoration, Chas. II., in 1662, granted letters patent to the Irish Society, containing, with very little alteration, all the clauses of the first charter of Jas. I.; this is the charter under which the Society and the corporation of Derry now act. In 1684, the same monarch constituted a guild of the staple, with powers as ample as those enjoyed by any other city or town: in the following year, owing to the decay of trade, the corporation complained to the Society that the government of the town was too expensive for the magistrates to sustain, and solicited an abatement of the rent.

In 1689 this city became the asylum of the Protestants of the north, who, in number about 30,000, fled to it for refuge before the marauding forces of James; and is distinguished in the annals of modern history for the heroic bravery of its inhabitants amidst the extreme privations of a protracted siege. The chief governor having withdrawn the Protestant garrison, and steps being taken to introduce an undisciplined native force influenced by hostile prejudices, the young men of the city closed the gates against its admission, and the bulk of the inhabitants took up arms in their own defence. The magistrates and graver citizens endeavoured to palliate this ebullition of military ardour in their representations to the lord-lieutenant, but in the meantime the armed inhabitants applied to the Irish Society for assistance. Lord Mountjoy, a Protestant commander in the army of James, was, however, admitted, in a great measure from personal regard, but on condition that a free pardon should be granted within 15 days, and that in the interval only two companies should be quartered within the walls; that of the forces afterwards admitted one-half at least should be Protestants; that until pardon was received the citizens should guard the fortifications; and that all who desired it might be permitted to quit the city. By the advice of Mountjoy, who was obeyed as a friend and associate, the arms were repaired, money cheerfully subscribed, ammunition purchased in Scotland, and the agent despatched to England urged to procure supplies. He was succeeded in the command by his first lieutenant, Lundy, whom King William, on sending an officer with some military supplies, commissioned to act in his name; but the dissatisfaction of the citizens was excited by the vacillating character of this commander, who, on the approach of James to besiege the city in person, prepared to surrender it, notwithstanding the arrival of two English colonels in the river with reinforcements, which he remanded. The principal officers being about to withdraw, and the town council preparing to offer terms of capitulation, the inhabitants rose tumultuously against the constituted authorities, received with enthusiasm a brave and popular captain who presented himself at the city gates with a reinforcement, and, rushing to the walls, fired upon James and his party advancing to take possession of the place. On deliberation they suffered the timid to depart unmolested; Lundy first concealed himself and afterwards escaped; and two new governors were chosen, one of whom was the celebrated George Walker, rector of Donoughmore. Under their directions the soldiers and able inhabitants were formed into eight regiments, numbering 7020 men, with 341 officers; order and discipline were in some degree established, and, notwithstanding partial jealousies, 18 Protestant clergymen and seven non-conformists shared in the labour and danger of the siege, and by their exhortations stimulated the enthusiastic courage of the defenders with the fervour of devotion. The operations of an army of 20,000 men were thus successfully opposed in a place abandoned as untenable by the regular forces, unaided by engineers or well-mounted guns, and with only a ten days' supply of provisions. An irregular war of sallies was adopted with such effect that James, who had hitherto remained at St. Johnstown, six miles distant, returned to Dublin, leaving his army to continue the siege. The defenders had now to contend against the inroads of disease and famine; and the arrival of Kirke with a fleet in the lough afforded but little prospect of relief, as he deemed it too hazardous an enterprise to sail up to the town in front of the enemy's lines. Although thus apparently left to their own scanty resources, the brave garrison continued the defence with unabated heroism, still making desperate and effective sallies even when too much enfeebled by hunger to pursue their success. To induce a surrender, Marshal Rosen, the besieging general, ordered his soldiers to drive round the walls of the town the helpless Protestant population of the surrounding district, of all ages, who were thus exposed to the horrors of famine for nearly three days before they were suffered to disperse; some of the ablest of the men secretly joined their comrades in the town, and an ineffective body of 500 people were passed from it unperceived by the enemy. When even such miserable resources as the flesh of horses and dogs, hides, tallow, and similar nauseous substances had failed for two days, two of Kirke's ships, laden with provisions and convoyed by the Dartmouth frigate, advanced up the lough in view both of the garrison and the besiegers, in a dangerous attempt to relieve the place, returning with spirit the fire of the enemy. The foremost of the provision ships came in contact with the boom that had been thrown across the channel and broke it, but rebounding with violence ran aground, and for the moment appeared to be at the mercy of the besiegers, who with acclamations of joy instantly prepared to board her; but the vessel, firing her guns, was extricated by the shock, floated, and triumphantly passed the boom followed by her companions. The town was thus relieved and the enemy retired; but of the brave defenders only 4300 survived to witness their deliverance, and of this number more than 1000 were incapable of service; those who were able immediately sallied out in pursuit of the enemy, who had lost 8000 men by the sword and by various disorders during the siege, which had continued 105 days. Culmore fort was reduced to ruin, and was never afterwards rebuilt; and the city sustained so much damage that the Irish Society deemed it necessary to appoint commissioners for its restoration; the twelve chief companies of London advanced £100 each; the Society supplied timber for the public buildings, abatements were made in the rents, the terms of leases were augmented, and other measures necessary for the accomplishment of this object were adopted. In 1692, the corporation failing to negociate with Bishop King for a renewal of the lease of the quarter-lands, reminded the Society that the bishop's claims to this property were unsubstantial, and agreed to establish their right in consideration